Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - April 1862 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
There have been but few new goods imported this season, economy being the order of the day. Old dresses are "made to look like new" as nearly as possible. Skirts worn out at the bottom are renewed or lengthened by a bias band, plaiting or ruffle, or silk of black or some color contrasting well with the dress. In this way two old dresses often make one stylish new one. Then antiquated bodies, or worn out bodies, are discarded, and jaunty Zouave jackets with white shirt bodies and sleeves, or Garibaldi shirts, take their place. As the season advances, pique or Marseilles will take the place of silk or flannel for these articles.
A very pretty dress may be arranged in the following way: A black silk skirt, either plain or trimmed, may be accompanied with a full body of white muslin, having bands of black velvet over the shoulder, crossed with the same in front in the form of a stomacher, and having a bow at the waist of the white muslin, wide, and with long ends, crossed with black velvet at the bottom.
Nothing new has as yet appeared in the way of trimming skirts. In fact, it would be almost impossible to have anything new in this respect, as such a variety of styles are already worn.
Dresses for evening wear are generally made with low-necked bodies, with points before and at the back, and with a fullness extending from the shoulders to the middle of the body. But bodies partially open, either square or in the heart shape are the most popular.
We have been asked to describe a dress suitable for a young lady. We give below one which is not very expensive, and can be modified according to the taste or purse of the wearer. We must premise that the combination of black and white is not at all confined to mourning, but, on the contrary, is one of the most fashionable of costumes. The dress of which we speak was composed of white tarlatane; the skirt ornamented with six narrow flounces at the bottom, each flounce trimmed with a row of tiny black velvet. The flounces were headed by a broad plaiting of tarlatane, trimmed at the top and bottom with black velvet. The low body was gathered, and cut square on the shoulders, also trimmed round with a plaiting, and finished off round the neck with a blonde tucker, having a narrow velvet run in it. A head-dress composed of black velvet and bunches of rose-buds, completed this simple but elegant toilet.
Should any of our readers feel inclined to make one of these dresses themselves, we would hint that tarlatane cannot be too little or too lightly handled, and therefore the flounces should be as quickly trimmed and put on as possible. To accomplish this, the flounces should be hemmed and the velvet put on at the same time, by turning the tarlatane once on the right side, and running the velvet on over the raw edge. In this manner the material need not be much tumbled.
Short coats hanging loosely will be very fashionable this season. They have a jaunty look, and have the advantage of taking much less material than those lately worn. Black silk shawls trimmed with lace, or silk ruffles will also be fashionable.
Bonnets have altered but little as yet in shape. A beautiful dress hat has just been made of white tulle, bound around the edge and cape with very light blue velvet, and trimmed across the top with a broad band of blue velvet. The white ribbon strings are also bound with velvet.
Kid gloves of light color, with one or two buttons, and embroidered in little squares at the back of the hand, are the most distingue.
Showing posts with label Fashion Chit Chat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion Chit Chat. Show all posts
Sunday, July 14, 2013
Saturday, April 20, 2013
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - July 1864 Godey's Lady's Book
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - July 1864 Godey's Lady's Book
Chitchat upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for July
The various wraps to be found at the establishment of Brodie in New York are perfect marvels of taste and art. The silks are of the stand alone quality, and the shapes and trimmings the most elegant we have seen.
Many are of the circular shape, trimmed with gimp ornaments and chenille tassels. Directly at the back of the neck is a Louis 13th box of the silk, with long ends richly trimmed.
Another style, both for cloth and silk, is a basque with three tails at the back and a skirt attached. This style is rather novel; but prettier in silk than cloth.
Paletots cut slightly into the figure are among the favorites. Many of these are slashed at the back and on each side, the slashes being caught together with gimp straps and ornaments, and richly trimmed with lace. This style of wrap has pockets in front covered with either lace or gimp. Some have gimp epaulettes which extend down the back below the waist. Others are made double-breasted with revers lined with white silk.
We have seen another style with a stuffed crescent-shaped epaulette, of the silk trimmed with very large jet drop buttons, which was exceedingly stylish.
The jaunty little jackets which are so much worn by misses, are made of all materials; some are trimmed with a box-plaited ruffle, edged with a narrow fringe, and the effect is exceedingly pretty. Indeed, they are all trimmed with irreproachable taste.
Checked, striped, and plain cloth circles of all the new and indescribable shades, are generally finished with a woollen chenille fringe. As we are not indebted to our foreign neighbors for this trimming, it being made both in New York and Philadelphia, the match is generally perfect.
Though these silk and woollen garments are requisite during the entire summer, lighter tissues are also needed. We would, therefore, call attention to the fresh attractive barege wraps, so pretty and convenient for warm weather. These are trimmed with flutings, narrow velvets, quillings, and bows. Of the latter style, we give an admirable illustration in the present number. Besides these inexpensive barege wraps, are the ever fashionable real lace points, and a great variety of both black and white mohair mantles and shawls.
The Oriental looking scarlet cloak is still worn at watering-places, also white cashmere and silk mantles trimmed with black insertion and chicoree ruches.
This muslin mantles lined with colored silk, and the hood formed of muslin and Valenciennes insertion, are very elegant and dressy. Indeed, such is the bewildering variety to be found at Mr. Brodie's establishment, that choice is really embarrassing.
On lately visiting the distinguished fleuriste, Mme. Tilman, of 148 East Ninth Street, New York, we were shown many beautiful things, though there seems to be rather a lull in the production of novelties; owing, we suppose, to the little demand for them, the warm weather having driven the fashionable world to the various watering-places. However, at this hothouse of elegance there is always something pretty to be seen.
Conspicuous for simple elegance among the bonnets was one of rice straw. It was trimmed with narrow bands of sea-green velvet and a marabout feather, tipped all over with tiny particles of mother-of-pearl, which, cameleon-like, changed color with the slightest movement. The inside trimming was a ruching of green crepe lisse, and almost fragrant roses.
For young ladies, nothing can be prettier than the vaporous-looking tulle bonnets with falling crowns. These are trimmed with violets, rose-buds, or lilies of the valley.
Another pretty style is a pressed crepe, spotted over with beads resembling water drops.
A novelty in the way of a hat had a bird of Paradise feather fastened in front and passing over the crown. A very small circular veil, formed of figured net edged with a narrow thread lace, was fastened in with the crown lining, which caused it to fit closely to the face in the mask style. Spun glass is but little used by Mme. T.; indeed, we saw it but on one hat. It was, however, of such exquisite fineness, and arranged so charmingly with scarlet velvet and fine grass, that the effect was exquisite.
Another pretty hat had in front a peacock with its beautifully crested head. It was small, and fitted very closely to the hat, the tail clinging to the sides of the crown. This is decidedly the prettiest peacock trimming we have seen, for, generally, the feathers are too large and sprawling.
Buff and salmon are very much used for the trimming of both bonnets and hats. On many of the bonnets a single flower is arranged on the outside. For instance, a water-lily, the leaves glistening with dew-drops. Or the bright tinted tulip. Of the latter flower we have seen many elegant specimens. Feathery, silvery, pearl, and silk grasses enter largely into the composition of moutures for bonnets and headdresses. Upon examining the elegant, wavering grasses, we found the hundreds of little spikelets to be formed of mother-of-pearl and steel; but so tiny and delicate, that the least breath would set them in motion; and the various lights thrown on them caused them to glitter almost like jewels.
Large, fancy wheat ears in salmon or buff crepe, with long silky beards, form a very stylish trimming for a black horse-hair bonnet.
Mush artistic skill is displayed in the arrangement of headdresses, though there is but little change in the style; nor will there be, until there is a decided change in the arrangement of the hair.
Sprays of pink coral, scarcely to be detected from the real article, arranged with grasses and shells, form a charming coiffure. Marie Antoinette tufts of the rarest flowers, and of the most graceful coloring, are to be found at Mme. Tilman's. Of the tufts and half wreaths of which we have spoken in a previous article, we shall shortly give illustrations. Many other beautiful fantasies we could mention; but we must also speak of children's hats.
For information we visited Mr. Genin's establishment, 513 Broadway, New York. Among the newest and most becoming styles, are the Arion, Casquet, and Armenia. The former has the crown tapering in front, and rounding at the back. The brim is narrow in front, runs to a point behind, and the edges are curled. The Casquet resembles the Arion, only that the brim is narrower and not curled. The Armenia has a high straight crown, narrow brim, which forms a curve both front and back, the side being perfectly straight. In some of the models, the brim at the side consists merely of a tiny roll of velvet.
Besides the above mentioned styles there are many others; but the three we have named seem to be the favorites, and are to be had in all sizes from ladies to infants.
Some of the dress hats have the brim entirely covered with velvet. The principal trimmings for ladies and misses are feathers and velvet. All kinds of feathers are brought into requisition - peacock's, heron, king fisher's, cock's, and even eagle plumes.
For children, flowers, shells, wheat ears, and ribbons, are the accepted trimmings. Straw ribbons and tassels arranged with high colored velvets, are very dressy.
For school hats, the different shades of gray or cuir, and the mixed straws, are the most suitable both for misses and boys. The turban and Scotch styles, though old, are very much adopted, and with the mask veil and the hair arranged en Grecque, present quite a jaunty and pretty appearance. They are suitable, however, only for misses.
Where ribbon is used, it generally terminates in long streamers at the back. Frequently, however, narrow ribbon velvet is laid in deep points round the crown fastening underneath, a tuft of feathers or flowers in front.
A drawn rosette of salmon-colored crepe lisse, with a scarf of the same, edged with a delicate straw fringe, forms a very light and pretty trimming for a hat.
For little boys, there are numerous styles; some have a round crown, with rolled brim. These are generally of a plain colored straw, trimmed with a band of blue or brown ribbon, fastened at the side with a pearl clasp. More fanciful shapes are trimmed with an aigrette, consisting of a small rosete of peacock's feathers, from which spring three straight fethers or a wing. The sailor-shaped hat is also fashionable.
Infants' hats are generally of white straw, bound with velvet, either a bright blue, lilac, or cherry. Narrow bands of the same encircle the crown, and, in front, a short white plume is caught with a bow of white ribbon. For a boy the plume passes over the crown, for a girl it falls at the side.
We can but give our readers a general idea of what is worn in our principal cities. So varied are the styles and trimmings of Mr. Genin's hats, that full opportunity is given for the exercise of taste in the selection of them.
As the warm weather is hurrying persons to the seaside, a few hints on bathing dresses may be acceptable.
There is no dress so easy of accomplishment as a neat, tasteful, and comfortable bathing dress; and yet, sometimes, when watching bathers at the sea-side, one is tempted to believe such an achievement impossible.
Instead of the usual flannel, Mme. Demorest is making bathing dresses of moreen, and considers this material better adapted for the purpose. It is of a strong, firm texture; not too heavy, does not cling to the person after being in the water, as it immediately drains off.
A very handsome suit just finished at her establishment, No. 473 Broadway, was of drab moreen, the waist plaited to a yoke, and into a belt at the back, the front left loose and belted in like a morning wrapper. The skirt not too short, about half way below the knee, and plaited at the back in large box plaits; the sleeves full, and fastened by a close band at the wrist; a small round collar of the same material give a neat finish to the throat. The trimmings consist of a band of scarlet cloth, one inch wide, stitched all round the skirt, a short distance from the edge; the same on cuffs, collar, and belt. Bloomer pants, fastened into a band of scarlet cloth at the ankle, completes the dress. This suit should of course be lined, except the skirt, and was, in this instance, neatly done with a very thin muslin, with just sufficient texture to make it smooth; and the seams were covered in the same manner as a double gown.
Another of the same goods cut like a circular, only joined on the shoulders, was nearly finished and was exceedingly pretty. The skirt being very full, with full sleeves and pants, and dark blue trimings instead of scarlet, made a very tasteful suit.
But we doubt the propriety of any but a genius at the work attempting to cut it. However, we remember that a duplicate pattern may be had from this establishment of any and everything desirable in the dress department.
By the way, why does not some leader of fashion at Newport or Cape May introduce the havelock as a appendage to a lady's bathing hat? It is so disagreeable to have the sun beating down on one's neck, which it will do, in spite of the wide-brimmed hats. We merely throw out the suggestion.
Chitchat upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for July
The various wraps to be found at the establishment of Brodie in New York are perfect marvels of taste and art. The silks are of the stand alone quality, and the shapes and trimmings the most elegant we have seen.
Many are of the circular shape, trimmed with gimp ornaments and chenille tassels. Directly at the back of the neck is a Louis 13th box of the silk, with long ends richly trimmed.
Another style, both for cloth and silk, is a basque with three tails at the back and a skirt attached. This style is rather novel; but prettier in silk than cloth.
Paletots cut slightly into the figure are among the favorites. Many of these are slashed at the back and on each side, the slashes being caught together with gimp straps and ornaments, and richly trimmed with lace. This style of wrap has pockets in front covered with either lace or gimp. Some have gimp epaulettes which extend down the back below the waist. Others are made double-breasted with revers lined with white silk.
We have seen another style with a stuffed crescent-shaped epaulette, of the silk trimmed with very large jet drop buttons, which was exceedingly stylish.
The jaunty little jackets which are so much worn by misses, are made of all materials; some are trimmed with a box-plaited ruffle, edged with a narrow fringe, and the effect is exceedingly pretty. Indeed, they are all trimmed with irreproachable taste.
Checked, striped, and plain cloth circles of all the new and indescribable shades, are generally finished with a woollen chenille fringe. As we are not indebted to our foreign neighbors for this trimming, it being made both in New York and Philadelphia, the match is generally perfect.
Though these silk and woollen garments are requisite during the entire summer, lighter tissues are also needed. We would, therefore, call attention to the fresh attractive barege wraps, so pretty and convenient for warm weather. These are trimmed with flutings, narrow velvets, quillings, and bows. Of the latter style, we give an admirable illustration in the present number. Besides these inexpensive barege wraps, are the ever fashionable real lace points, and a great variety of both black and white mohair mantles and shawls.
The Oriental looking scarlet cloak is still worn at watering-places, also white cashmere and silk mantles trimmed with black insertion and chicoree ruches.
This muslin mantles lined with colored silk, and the hood formed of muslin and Valenciennes insertion, are very elegant and dressy. Indeed, such is the bewildering variety to be found at Mr. Brodie's establishment, that choice is really embarrassing.
On lately visiting the distinguished fleuriste, Mme. Tilman, of 148 East Ninth Street, New York, we were shown many beautiful things, though there seems to be rather a lull in the production of novelties; owing, we suppose, to the little demand for them, the warm weather having driven the fashionable world to the various watering-places. However, at this hothouse of elegance there is always something pretty to be seen.
Conspicuous for simple elegance among the bonnets was one of rice straw. It was trimmed with narrow bands of sea-green velvet and a marabout feather, tipped all over with tiny particles of mother-of-pearl, which, cameleon-like, changed color with the slightest movement. The inside trimming was a ruching of green crepe lisse, and almost fragrant roses.
For young ladies, nothing can be prettier than the vaporous-looking tulle bonnets with falling crowns. These are trimmed with violets, rose-buds, or lilies of the valley.
Another pretty style is a pressed crepe, spotted over with beads resembling water drops.
A novelty in the way of a hat had a bird of Paradise feather fastened in front and passing over the crown. A very small circular veil, formed of figured net edged with a narrow thread lace, was fastened in with the crown lining, which caused it to fit closely to the face in the mask style. Spun glass is but little used by Mme. T.; indeed, we saw it but on one hat. It was, however, of such exquisite fineness, and arranged so charmingly with scarlet velvet and fine grass, that the effect was exquisite.
Another pretty hat had in front a peacock with its beautifully crested head. It was small, and fitted very closely to the hat, the tail clinging to the sides of the crown. This is decidedly the prettiest peacock trimming we have seen, for, generally, the feathers are too large and sprawling.
Buff and salmon are very much used for the trimming of both bonnets and hats. On many of the bonnets a single flower is arranged on the outside. For instance, a water-lily, the leaves glistening with dew-drops. Or the bright tinted tulip. Of the latter flower we have seen many elegant specimens. Feathery, silvery, pearl, and silk grasses enter largely into the composition of moutures for bonnets and headdresses. Upon examining the elegant, wavering grasses, we found the hundreds of little spikelets to be formed of mother-of-pearl and steel; but so tiny and delicate, that the least breath would set them in motion; and the various lights thrown on them caused them to glitter almost like jewels.
Large, fancy wheat ears in salmon or buff crepe, with long silky beards, form a very stylish trimming for a black horse-hair bonnet.
Mush artistic skill is displayed in the arrangement of headdresses, though there is but little change in the style; nor will there be, until there is a decided change in the arrangement of the hair.
Sprays of pink coral, scarcely to be detected from the real article, arranged with grasses and shells, form a charming coiffure. Marie Antoinette tufts of the rarest flowers, and of the most graceful coloring, are to be found at Mme. Tilman's. Of the tufts and half wreaths of which we have spoken in a previous article, we shall shortly give illustrations. Many other beautiful fantasies we could mention; but we must also speak of children's hats.
For information we visited Mr. Genin's establishment, 513 Broadway, New York. Among the newest and most becoming styles, are the Arion, Casquet, and Armenia. The former has the crown tapering in front, and rounding at the back. The brim is narrow in front, runs to a point behind, and the edges are curled. The Casquet resembles the Arion, only that the brim is narrower and not curled. The Armenia has a high straight crown, narrow brim, which forms a curve both front and back, the side being perfectly straight. In some of the models, the brim at the side consists merely of a tiny roll of velvet.
Besides the above mentioned styles there are many others; but the three we have named seem to be the favorites, and are to be had in all sizes from ladies to infants.
Some of the dress hats have the brim entirely covered with velvet. The principal trimmings for ladies and misses are feathers and velvet. All kinds of feathers are brought into requisition - peacock's, heron, king fisher's, cock's, and even eagle plumes.
For children, flowers, shells, wheat ears, and ribbons, are the accepted trimmings. Straw ribbons and tassels arranged with high colored velvets, are very dressy.
For school hats, the different shades of gray or cuir, and the mixed straws, are the most suitable both for misses and boys. The turban and Scotch styles, though old, are very much adopted, and with the mask veil and the hair arranged en Grecque, present quite a jaunty and pretty appearance. They are suitable, however, only for misses.
Where ribbon is used, it generally terminates in long streamers at the back. Frequently, however, narrow ribbon velvet is laid in deep points round the crown fastening underneath, a tuft of feathers or flowers in front.
A drawn rosette of salmon-colored crepe lisse, with a scarf of the same, edged with a delicate straw fringe, forms a very light and pretty trimming for a hat.
For little boys, there are numerous styles; some have a round crown, with rolled brim. These are generally of a plain colored straw, trimmed with a band of blue or brown ribbon, fastened at the side with a pearl clasp. More fanciful shapes are trimmed with an aigrette, consisting of a small rosete of peacock's feathers, from which spring three straight fethers or a wing. The sailor-shaped hat is also fashionable.
Infants' hats are generally of white straw, bound with velvet, either a bright blue, lilac, or cherry. Narrow bands of the same encircle the crown, and, in front, a short white plume is caught with a bow of white ribbon. For a boy the plume passes over the crown, for a girl it falls at the side.
We can but give our readers a general idea of what is worn in our principal cities. So varied are the styles and trimmings of Mr. Genin's hats, that full opportunity is given for the exercise of taste in the selection of them.
As the warm weather is hurrying persons to the seaside, a few hints on bathing dresses may be acceptable.
There is no dress so easy of accomplishment as a neat, tasteful, and comfortable bathing dress; and yet, sometimes, when watching bathers at the sea-side, one is tempted to believe such an achievement impossible.
Instead of the usual flannel, Mme. Demorest is making bathing dresses of moreen, and considers this material better adapted for the purpose. It is of a strong, firm texture; not too heavy, does not cling to the person after being in the water, as it immediately drains off.
A very handsome suit just finished at her establishment, No. 473 Broadway, was of drab moreen, the waist plaited to a yoke, and into a belt at the back, the front left loose and belted in like a morning wrapper. The skirt not too short, about half way below the knee, and plaited at the back in large box plaits; the sleeves full, and fastened by a close band at the wrist; a small round collar of the same material give a neat finish to the throat. The trimmings consist of a band of scarlet cloth, one inch wide, stitched all round the skirt, a short distance from the edge; the same on cuffs, collar, and belt. Bloomer pants, fastened into a band of scarlet cloth at the ankle, completes the dress. This suit should of course be lined, except the skirt, and was, in this instance, neatly done with a very thin muslin, with just sufficient texture to make it smooth; and the seams were covered in the same manner as a double gown.
Another of the same goods cut like a circular, only joined on the shoulders, was nearly finished and was exceedingly pretty. The skirt being very full, with full sleeves and pants, and dark blue trimings instead of scarlet, made a very tasteful suit.
But we doubt the propriety of any but a genius at the work attempting to cut it. However, we remember that a duplicate pattern may be had from this establishment of any and everything desirable in the dress department.
By the way, why does not some leader of fashion at Newport or Cape May introduce the havelock as a appendage to a lady's bathing hat? It is so disagreeable to have the sun beating down on one's neck, which it will do, in spite of the wide-brimmed hats. We merely throw out the suggestion.
Sunday, January 6, 2013
Civil War Era Chit Chat - May 1862 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Chit Chat - May 1862 Peterson's Magazine
Fashions for Mourning
For Deep Mourning, bombazine is considered the most suitable material, though delaine is very much worn, as less expensive. For summer wear there are innumerable materials of the barege family; but these must all be made over black. Black alpaca is a most suitable article for mourning, except for the very deepest kind of black, when its glossiness is objectionable. But nothing can supply its place as a traveling-dress, or a "knock-about" dress, where there is likely to be much dust, as it throws it off so easily. For a lighter kind of mourning, plain black silks can be worn with propriety; but they should be of the kind styled "dead black," that is, without any gloss. Then come the different kinds of purples, grays, lilacs, and mixtures of black and white. Or black may be trimmed with purple, white, or gray; or these colors may have trimmings of black, according to the relationship of the person, or the length of time the mourning has been worn. For deep mourning, such as for a parent, husband, or any other near relative, the trimmings should be of crape only, and but little of even that. It is totally inadmissible to have much trimming in "deep black." The plainer the dress is, the more suitable. Black collars and sleeves are indispensable in such mourning, as well as black crape bonnet and veil. But when the relative is not so near, or when the deeper mourning has been laid aside, thin, plain white collars and sleeves are permitted, more trimming can be worn on the dress, the skirt may be ruffled or otherwise trimmed, and purple or white flowers worn in the face of the bonnet. With this lighter kind of mourning, a silk coat or sacque may be worn, or even a black shawl with a colored border, provided the colors are not too gay. As the season advances, white straw bonnets may be worn, trimmed with black, or even with white or purple, with purple pansies or violets in the face; but if the mourning is deeper, the bonnet should be of black straw, trimmed with crape or ribbon.
Fashions for Mourning
For Deep Mourning, bombazine is considered the most suitable material, though delaine is very much worn, as less expensive. For summer wear there are innumerable materials of the barege family; but these must all be made over black. Black alpaca is a most suitable article for mourning, except for the very deepest kind of black, when its glossiness is objectionable. But nothing can supply its place as a traveling-dress, or a "knock-about" dress, where there is likely to be much dust, as it throws it off so easily. For a lighter kind of mourning, plain black silks can be worn with propriety; but they should be of the kind styled "dead black," that is, without any gloss. Then come the different kinds of purples, grays, lilacs, and mixtures of black and white. Or black may be trimmed with purple, white, or gray; or these colors may have trimmings of black, according to the relationship of the person, or the length of time the mourning has been worn. For deep mourning, such as for a parent, husband, or any other near relative, the trimmings should be of crape only, and but little of even that. It is totally inadmissible to have much trimming in "deep black." The plainer the dress is, the more suitable. Black collars and sleeves are indispensable in such mourning, as well as black crape bonnet and veil. But when the relative is not so near, or when the deeper mourning has been laid aside, thin, plain white collars and sleeves are permitted, more trimming can be worn on the dress, the skirt may be ruffled or otherwise trimmed, and purple or white flowers worn in the face of the bonnet. With this lighter kind of mourning, a silk coat or sacque may be worn, or even a black shawl with a colored border, provided the colors are not too gay. As the season advances, white straw bonnets may be worn, trimmed with black, or even with white or purple, with purple pansies or violets in the face; but if the mourning is deeper, the bonnet should be of black straw, trimmed with crape or ribbon.
Saturday, December 29, 2012
Civil War Era Chit Chat - May 1862 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Chit Chat - May 1862 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
Most of the silks are in very small plaids or checks; though some of the more expensive ones are of a solid ground, with leaves, small sprigs, etc., of the same color as the ground, but of a darker shade. But few India silks have been brought to the market for some years past; but these, when they can be obtained, make the cheapest and most serviceable silk dress which can be worn. These silks wash like a good chintz, and always look well.
Foulard is a material now employed for dresses at all seasons, and of late has been made in new and beautiful patterns. Many foulards have a brown, black, or violet ground, figured with patterns like those on other kinds of silk. For instance, some are sprigged with flowers on a white ground, or they are figured with a lozenge pattern in green. We have seen one figured with black stripes on brown, and another with Pompadour bouquets. These foulards, we may also mention, are of a firm texture. For young ladies' demi-toilet nothing can be more suitable than a dress of foulard with a white ground; the corsage low, with a fichu and a ceinture of the same silk as the dress, fastened either in front or behind; or the corsage may have a berthe crossed in front, and trimmed with bows of ribbon on the shoulders.
Alpacas of various colors are very much worn abroad; but few have been introduced here, except those in black, which are always so much worn for mourning. But there are various articles which have taken the place of alpacas, some heavy, some light, composed of silk and wool, or of all wool. The names and styles of these articles are legion, but any of them will make most serviceable dresses for the country, for traveling, for walking, etc,; in fact, no lady's wardrobe should be without one, particularly as they can be had very cheap, though some of the styles range as high as one dollar and thirty-seven cents a yard; but of double width. These goods can be obtained in either checks, stripes (like that of our third figure), or plain.
Chintzes rival the silks this season in beauty of design.
Piques, or Marseilles, are, as usual, of a light ground, with small figures. These, as we have before informed our readers, are a much heavier material than chintz, very much like the old-fashioned vesting Marseilles, and require no lining in the bodies. They are particularly suitable for children. Some of the plain buff ones, braided with black, make the most stylish dress a small boy or girl can wear.
Next month we will speak of bareges, tissues, lawns, etc., suitable for warm weather.
There is but little that is new as yet in the make of dresses. Many bodies, particularly those in silk and more expensive materials, are made with a point, both at the back and in front. For quite young ladies, the round waist is much worn, with either a belt, sash, or one of those pointed ceintures known as the Medici ceinture. One of the most beautiful of these latter is made of black velvet, having a point both at the back and in front, and with two long black velvet tabs, about a quarter of a yard in width, depending down each side, widening toward the ends, which are rounded. The waistband, as well as the tabs, are braided with very narrow white silk braid.
The skirts of dresses are still gored so as to be quite wide at the bottom, but narrow at the waist.
For walking dresses the skirts are made quite plain, or with only a little trimming up the sides or front; but silks are usually ruffled, except they be of very good quality, when they are made plain.
Bodies of dresses are usually made high, buttoning down the front; but, as the season advances, low bodies and capes, or Raphael bodies (that is, bodies cut square in the neck), will be worn.
Many of the newest walking dresses have sleeves shaped to the elbow; they are slit up to a short distance at the lower part, and the ends are rounded. But sleeves are made in all styles, according to the fancy of the wearer.
Among the new capes, etc., the French fichu is a pretty variety of those useful articles which have lately been so prevalent. It is made of clear muslin laid in box plaits, joined up over the shoulders, and coming down to a point both before and behind. It is finished at the enck with two rows of narrow lace, having a narrow black velvet in between: and braces of black velvet, wide at the shoulders, but narrowing toward the waist, are laid on its outer edge. At the back there is a bow of black velvet without ends, and in the front one with ends. In making this fichu care must be taken that it shall fit the person for whom it is intended, and it is especially necessary that the velvet braces should fit the figure.
The most favorite cap of the season is formed of a round crown, set into a narrow band, which just encircles the head. This band is trimmed in various ways, sometimes with quillings of blonde, sometimes with bows of ribbon, and sometimes with the two intermingled. One of the prettiest that we have seen in this style has its crown of white tulle, a full double quilling of the same set on all round, the band being pointed over the front, just in the middle of the forehead; two long lappets of the same, edged with a quilling of narrow tulle set on the front of the cap, and thrown back over the crown to hang down over the shoulders; and on the point in front a large rose, with a number of little sprays turned toward the back, the rose resting on the forehead, and the sprays turning backward over the lappets. Another extremely pretty and simple head-dress is made by covering a band with clusters of bows, not too regular, but rather varied in form, and fastening it behind with a lace or tulle lappet.
The short sacque, as we stated in our last number, will be the greatest novelty of the season; but this needs no description, as there was a design in the April number of the article. Scarf mantillas, trimmed with narrow ruffles, will be worn also this spring.
Bonnets are very much of the shape which have been worn during the past season, but some of them have the fronts very much exaggerated in size, and filled with trimming. A lady of good taste always adapts her bonnet to her style of face; and the very large bonnets are not worn by the best dressed people. The flowers are not worn as much in the middle of the bonnet as heretofore, but a little on one side.
One of the most striking novelties of the season is the cloak of scarlet cloth, or flannel, now best known as the Gipsy Cloak. This is, in fact, the circular shape, not now cut either on the cross or in the width of the cloth, but with a join down the back, and the simple hood drawn up all round. The other cloak of the season, sometimes called the Galway, and sometimes the Colleen Bawn, is also now fashionable, made in scarlet cloth, or flannel. This cloak has its large cape drawn up behind with two rosettes, a shape which will be fashionable in the summer as a seaside wrap, or for the cool evenings in the country.
General Remarks
Most of the silks are in very small plaids or checks; though some of the more expensive ones are of a solid ground, with leaves, small sprigs, etc., of the same color as the ground, but of a darker shade. But few India silks have been brought to the market for some years past; but these, when they can be obtained, make the cheapest and most serviceable silk dress which can be worn. These silks wash like a good chintz, and always look well.
Foulard is a material now employed for dresses at all seasons, and of late has been made in new and beautiful patterns. Many foulards have a brown, black, or violet ground, figured with patterns like those on other kinds of silk. For instance, some are sprigged with flowers on a white ground, or they are figured with a lozenge pattern in green. We have seen one figured with black stripes on brown, and another with Pompadour bouquets. These foulards, we may also mention, are of a firm texture. For young ladies' demi-toilet nothing can be more suitable than a dress of foulard with a white ground; the corsage low, with a fichu and a ceinture of the same silk as the dress, fastened either in front or behind; or the corsage may have a berthe crossed in front, and trimmed with bows of ribbon on the shoulders.
Alpacas of various colors are very much worn abroad; but few have been introduced here, except those in black, which are always so much worn for mourning. But there are various articles which have taken the place of alpacas, some heavy, some light, composed of silk and wool, or of all wool. The names and styles of these articles are legion, but any of them will make most serviceable dresses for the country, for traveling, for walking, etc,; in fact, no lady's wardrobe should be without one, particularly as they can be had very cheap, though some of the styles range as high as one dollar and thirty-seven cents a yard; but of double width. These goods can be obtained in either checks, stripes (like that of our third figure), or plain.
Chintzes rival the silks this season in beauty of design.
Piques, or Marseilles, are, as usual, of a light ground, with small figures. These, as we have before informed our readers, are a much heavier material than chintz, very much like the old-fashioned vesting Marseilles, and require no lining in the bodies. They are particularly suitable for children. Some of the plain buff ones, braided with black, make the most stylish dress a small boy or girl can wear.
Next month we will speak of bareges, tissues, lawns, etc., suitable for warm weather.
There is but little that is new as yet in the make of dresses. Many bodies, particularly those in silk and more expensive materials, are made with a point, both at the back and in front. For quite young ladies, the round waist is much worn, with either a belt, sash, or one of those pointed ceintures known as the Medici ceinture. One of the most beautiful of these latter is made of black velvet, having a point both at the back and in front, and with two long black velvet tabs, about a quarter of a yard in width, depending down each side, widening toward the ends, which are rounded. The waistband, as well as the tabs, are braided with very narrow white silk braid.
The skirts of dresses are still gored so as to be quite wide at the bottom, but narrow at the waist.
For walking dresses the skirts are made quite plain, or with only a little trimming up the sides or front; but silks are usually ruffled, except they be of very good quality, when they are made plain.
Bodies of dresses are usually made high, buttoning down the front; but, as the season advances, low bodies and capes, or Raphael bodies (that is, bodies cut square in the neck), will be worn.
Many of the newest walking dresses have sleeves shaped to the elbow; they are slit up to a short distance at the lower part, and the ends are rounded. But sleeves are made in all styles, according to the fancy of the wearer.
Among the new capes, etc., the French fichu is a pretty variety of those useful articles which have lately been so prevalent. It is made of clear muslin laid in box plaits, joined up over the shoulders, and coming down to a point both before and behind. It is finished at the enck with two rows of narrow lace, having a narrow black velvet in between: and braces of black velvet, wide at the shoulders, but narrowing toward the waist, are laid on its outer edge. At the back there is a bow of black velvet without ends, and in the front one with ends. In making this fichu care must be taken that it shall fit the person for whom it is intended, and it is especially necessary that the velvet braces should fit the figure.
The most favorite cap of the season is formed of a round crown, set into a narrow band, which just encircles the head. This band is trimmed in various ways, sometimes with quillings of blonde, sometimes with bows of ribbon, and sometimes with the two intermingled. One of the prettiest that we have seen in this style has its crown of white tulle, a full double quilling of the same set on all round, the band being pointed over the front, just in the middle of the forehead; two long lappets of the same, edged with a quilling of narrow tulle set on the front of the cap, and thrown back over the crown to hang down over the shoulders; and on the point in front a large rose, with a number of little sprays turned toward the back, the rose resting on the forehead, and the sprays turning backward over the lappets. Another extremely pretty and simple head-dress is made by covering a band with clusters of bows, not too regular, but rather varied in form, and fastening it behind with a lace or tulle lappet.
The short sacque, as we stated in our last number, will be the greatest novelty of the season; but this needs no description, as there was a design in the April number of the article. Scarf mantillas, trimmed with narrow ruffles, will be worn also this spring.
Bonnets are very much of the shape which have been worn during the past season, but some of them have the fronts very much exaggerated in size, and filled with trimming. A lady of good taste always adapts her bonnet to her style of face; and the very large bonnets are not worn by the best dressed people. The flowers are not worn as much in the middle of the bonnet as heretofore, but a little on one side.
One of the most striking novelties of the season is the cloak of scarlet cloth, or flannel, now best known as the Gipsy Cloak. This is, in fact, the circular shape, not now cut either on the cross or in the width of the cloth, but with a join down the back, and the simple hood drawn up all round. The other cloak of the season, sometimes called the Galway, and sometimes the Colleen Bawn, is also now fashionable, made in scarlet cloth, or flannel. This cloak has its large cape drawn up behind with two rosettes, a shape which will be fashionable in the summer as a seaside wrap, or for the cool evenings in the country.
Friday, December 7, 2012
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - May 1863 Godey's Lady's Book
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - May 1863 Godey's Lady's Book
Chitchat upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for May
Although some time has elapsed since the wedding of Tom Thumb and the little Warren amused the town, we think a description of a dress designed and made for her at Mme. Demorest's may be acceptable to many of our readers.
It was of a golden maize-colored silk, the skirt cut en traine, and ornamented with designs, intended to be emblematical of our own country, England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, and Italy. The decorations were formed of very narrow pipings of white satin, softened by rich point applique lace. The design in front was an ear of corn, the grains in seed pearls, for America. On the right, a rose encircled with buds and leaves for England; on the left, laurel for France; Germany was represented by acorns, with leaves; Italy, by grapes; Ireland, by shamrocks; and Scotland, by the thistle. This rich drapery was caught up at the left to display the petticoat of white silk, with its blonde puffings and diamond-shaped crossings of strung Roman pearls. The corsage was low, with short sleeves, very tastefully trimmed with satin pipings and point lace. But even this elegant robe was not so fascinating to us as the dainty little corset of white satin, elaborately stitched and embroidered, moulded to fit the perfect little figure it was destined to inclose. Its proportions strongly reminded us if doll-dressing days in the nursery. We must not forget to mention the hoop, also a model in its way, and so closely woven that, though perfect in proportion to the tiny figure of the wearer, it contained fifty-two hoops, covered with white silk. The binding and facings were of white satin to match the corset. We venture to say that these contributions of Mme. Demorest to the trousseau of Mrs. Thumb have never been excelled. While on the subject of hoops, we must not neglect the new style called Quaker skirt. This is much smaller than the usual hoop, tapering most gracefully from the base to the top. It is especially suited to light summer, and airy ball dresses. Heavier dresses, being very long and ample, require a large hoop with a decided spring to give them a graceful appearance.
We select from the many beautiful articles in Mme. Demorest's salons, the following: A rich mauve moire dress, ornamented on the corsage and sleeves with guipure applications, laid upon the material in elegant and varied patterns, which is quite a relief from the ordinary lace with one straight edge. Another was a jacket of white silk, bordered with a piping of cerise silk, covered with a tiny guipure edge. On each side of the corsage was a true lover's knot, formed of guipure, lined with cerise silk, closely stitched down. The sleeves were ornamented to correspond. Another attractive garment was an opera cloak of white cloth, bound with pink silk. It was a circle, bias at the back, with seam down the centre. The front was caught up very gracefully, and thrown over the left shoulder like a Spanish cloak, where it fell in soft graceful folds. We consider this one of the most stylish garments of the season, and one that will be very suitable for street wear, made of drab or cuir-colored cloths. We noticed that most of the white bodies at Mme. Demorest's were tucked in bunches, which is a slight, but very pretty change from last season. We may remark, en passant, that both thick and thin muslins can be purchased striped, to imitate tucks in all their different styles, which, of course, will be a great saving of trouble to the blanchisseuse.
As mothers are becoming anxious about the little folks' hats, we are now able to gratify them, having paid a recent visit to Mr. Genin's establishment on Broadway. We found a most excellent variety, both in shape and style, the colors being entirely new. For instance, a dark cuir-colored straw, and a mixture of the most brilliant purple with black and white, besides every possible combination of black and white. For boys, there is the Harrow cap, of a cuir-color, a turban with closely fitting brim, and a vizor, with a binding of a rich blue straw. Others are trimmed with bindings of fancy leather, and bound with velvet the exact shade of the leather. The Berwick is another pretty style, with straight and taper crown, brim very wide and heavily rolled at the sides, and slightly rolled in front. This style is suitable for boys from two to four. Then the Eton, for boys from four to seven, generally of a mixed straw, with sailor brim an inch and a half wide, and the crown a complete round. This style has a dark blue ribbon tied at the side, and fastened with a straw knot. The same style, slightly modified, will be worn by older boys, the difference being that the crown is straight, and rounding only on top. One of the most artistic hats is a Leghorn with double brim, the brim turning from the under part to the outside, reaching the crown, where the straw is fluted, and forms the sole trimming of the hat. Conspicuous among the straw and hair ornaments for children's hats are bees, flied, butterfly bows, bugles, cornets, and other devices.
For little girls, there is the Dartford hat. This is one of the prettiest styles. It has a high taper crown, drooping slightly both back and front, bound with velvet and a piping of velvet, the same width as the binding, laid on the brim. It is trimmed with two bands of velvet round the crown, and a tuft of field flowers directly in front. The trimmings will be flowers, and scarfs of silk with fringed ends.
The riding-hats are of the Spanish styles, very high pointed crowns, with brims rolled at the sides. They are made of every variety of straw, and are very stylish.
We have but few decided novelties to record. One, however, is a monstrosity in the shape of a pocket handkerchief. It is of grass cloth, the color of brown wrapping-paper, ornamented by a single row of hem-stitch, and a narrow border of either blue or red.
Black lace leaves are among the newest things. These are used for ornamenting white muslin jackets, dresses, and opera cloaks. The effect is striking and beautiful. We have seen some pretty grenadine veils, with borders formed of pin stripes. For instance, a light mode-color veil, with a border of black stripes, is very effective. For morning collars, we have the Byron style; that is, a standing collar at the back, and the ends turned down in front. These are worn by both sexes. Another style, called the Alexndra collar, has the Prince of Wales feather stitched on them with colored cotton.
Piques will be very fashionable, and the colored ones more varied in design and color than in former years. The designs being the same on the muslins, large Grecques, stars, pin dots, and other styles. We use the future tense respecting piques, for though we are told it is Spring, it is difficult to believe it, and nothing thinner than summer poplins, India silks, mohair lustres, queen's cloth, alpaca, and such goods, can yet be worn.
Many of the dress sleeves are made quite small at the wrist, barely admitting a small undersleeve. Dresses of all kinds are being trimmed with flutings, which are to be had ready fluted in tarletane, ribbon and silk, and any material can be quilled at a trifling expense.
Perfect scaffoldings of hair are now built on the head - roll upon roll - puff upon puff. Some of the styles are extremely odd; not the least odd, is that, for which are used two rats, two mice, a cat, and a cataract. Lest, however, we should be the means of some pussy being cut off by a premature death from the circle of which she is the ornament, we hasten to explain. The rats are the long frizetts of curled hair for the side rolls; the mice are the smaller ones above them; the cat is for the roll laid over the top of the head; and the cataract is for the chignon at the back of the head - which is sometimes called waterfall, cataract, and jet d'eau.
Little girls are wearing their hair in short frizzed curls, and, in some instances, we have seen very long hair floating down the back only slightly crepe. This, however, is not a pretty style, and we would not advise its adoption.
For coiffures, the humming-bird alone disputes with the butterfly the favor of fashion. These ornaments were introduced by the Empress of the French, and bring fabulous prices, many of them being made of precious stones, or of enamel worked with gold. They are worn by young ladies as well as matrons; the humming birds, being the natural bird of the rarest plumage, frequently set with diamond eyes.
At a recent ball the dress of the Empress was hooked up with diamond butterflies. The coiffure was composed of tufts of violets, from which a brilliant diamond butterfly seemed ready to spring into the air. The natural butterfly is however a coveted headdress, and as it is extremely fragile, it is rather an expensive fashion. They, as well as humming birds, are frequently mounted on barbes, with charming effect. One of the prettiest ball dresses we have seen, was a mass of little puffings over which were scattered butterflies of every hue and shade. The mania extends still further. We see them in the florist's windows hovering over plants, baskets of flowers, and choice hand bouquets. The last novelty however is this; every variety of humming bird and butterfly is gotten up on cartes of the carte de visite size for albums.
Mrs. Ellis, of 880 Broadway, is making up with her usual good taste, a number of very recherche walking suits. A very attractive one is an ashes of roses. Spring poplin, with very deep braiding in black above the hem. A talma of the same has a narrower braiding above the binding, and on the shoulders it is braided to represent a guipure round cape, the same as worn on the velvet cloaks this winter. The effect is beautiful. Another is a buff mohair lustre, braided in large palms round the skirt, with a talma of the same braided with smaller palms of the same style.
Brodie is making up Rotundes, sacks, and circles of every shade of steel, mode, and cuir. Most of them are braided in very striking patterns, some with merely a braided epaulet, while others are elegantly trimmed with gimp and jet ornaments. The silk wraps are generally trimmed with rich lace, oftentimes laid over white silk or satin, which gives a very distingue appearance. There is a great variety of out door garments, and the choice is left to the individual taste of the wearer.
We see but little alteration in the shape of bonnets. They are quite high, very shallow at the sides, and a gradual slope from the crown to the front. Gray straws are very fashionable, also silk bonnets closely shirred, sometimes with puffs between. In our next we will give more definite information respecting bonnets.
Chitchat upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for May
Although some time has elapsed since the wedding of Tom Thumb and the little Warren amused the town, we think a description of a dress designed and made for her at Mme. Demorest's may be acceptable to many of our readers.
It was of a golden maize-colored silk, the skirt cut en traine, and ornamented with designs, intended to be emblematical of our own country, England, Ireland, Scotland, France, Germany, and Italy. The decorations were formed of very narrow pipings of white satin, softened by rich point applique lace. The design in front was an ear of corn, the grains in seed pearls, for America. On the right, a rose encircled with buds and leaves for England; on the left, laurel for France; Germany was represented by acorns, with leaves; Italy, by grapes; Ireland, by shamrocks; and Scotland, by the thistle. This rich drapery was caught up at the left to display the petticoat of white silk, with its blonde puffings and diamond-shaped crossings of strung Roman pearls. The corsage was low, with short sleeves, very tastefully trimmed with satin pipings and point lace. But even this elegant robe was not so fascinating to us as the dainty little corset of white satin, elaborately stitched and embroidered, moulded to fit the perfect little figure it was destined to inclose. Its proportions strongly reminded us if doll-dressing days in the nursery. We must not forget to mention the hoop, also a model in its way, and so closely woven that, though perfect in proportion to the tiny figure of the wearer, it contained fifty-two hoops, covered with white silk. The binding and facings were of white satin to match the corset. We venture to say that these contributions of Mme. Demorest to the trousseau of Mrs. Thumb have never been excelled. While on the subject of hoops, we must not neglect the new style called Quaker skirt. This is much smaller than the usual hoop, tapering most gracefully from the base to the top. It is especially suited to light summer, and airy ball dresses. Heavier dresses, being very long and ample, require a large hoop with a decided spring to give them a graceful appearance.
We select from the many beautiful articles in Mme. Demorest's salons, the following: A rich mauve moire dress, ornamented on the corsage and sleeves with guipure applications, laid upon the material in elegant and varied patterns, which is quite a relief from the ordinary lace with one straight edge. Another was a jacket of white silk, bordered with a piping of cerise silk, covered with a tiny guipure edge. On each side of the corsage was a true lover's knot, formed of guipure, lined with cerise silk, closely stitched down. The sleeves were ornamented to correspond. Another attractive garment was an opera cloak of white cloth, bound with pink silk. It was a circle, bias at the back, with seam down the centre. The front was caught up very gracefully, and thrown over the left shoulder like a Spanish cloak, where it fell in soft graceful folds. We consider this one of the most stylish garments of the season, and one that will be very suitable for street wear, made of drab or cuir-colored cloths. We noticed that most of the white bodies at Mme. Demorest's were tucked in bunches, which is a slight, but very pretty change from last season. We may remark, en passant, that both thick and thin muslins can be purchased striped, to imitate tucks in all their different styles, which, of course, will be a great saving of trouble to the blanchisseuse.
As mothers are becoming anxious about the little folks' hats, we are now able to gratify them, having paid a recent visit to Mr. Genin's establishment on Broadway. We found a most excellent variety, both in shape and style, the colors being entirely new. For instance, a dark cuir-colored straw, and a mixture of the most brilliant purple with black and white, besides every possible combination of black and white. For boys, there is the Harrow cap, of a cuir-color, a turban with closely fitting brim, and a vizor, with a binding of a rich blue straw. Others are trimmed with bindings of fancy leather, and bound with velvet the exact shade of the leather. The Berwick is another pretty style, with straight and taper crown, brim very wide and heavily rolled at the sides, and slightly rolled in front. This style is suitable for boys from two to four. Then the Eton, for boys from four to seven, generally of a mixed straw, with sailor brim an inch and a half wide, and the crown a complete round. This style has a dark blue ribbon tied at the side, and fastened with a straw knot. The same style, slightly modified, will be worn by older boys, the difference being that the crown is straight, and rounding only on top. One of the most artistic hats is a Leghorn with double brim, the brim turning from the under part to the outside, reaching the crown, where the straw is fluted, and forms the sole trimming of the hat. Conspicuous among the straw and hair ornaments for children's hats are bees, flied, butterfly bows, bugles, cornets, and other devices.
For little girls, there is the Dartford hat. This is one of the prettiest styles. It has a high taper crown, drooping slightly both back and front, bound with velvet and a piping of velvet, the same width as the binding, laid on the brim. It is trimmed with two bands of velvet round the crown, and a tuft of field flowers directly in front. The trimmings will be flowers, and scarfs of silk with fringed ends.
The riding-hats are of the Spanish styles, very high pointed crowns, with brims rolled at the sides. They are made of every variety of straw, and are very stylish.
We have but few decided novelties to record. One, however, is a monstrosity in the shape of a pocket handkerchief. It is of grass cloth, the color of brown wrapping-paper, ornamented by a single row of hem-stitch, and a narrow border of either blue or red.
Black lace leaves are among the newest things. These are used for ornamenting white muslin jackets, dresses, and opera cloaks. The effect is striking and beautiful. We have seen some pretty grenadine veils, with borders formed of pin stripes. For instance, a light mode-color veil, with a border of black stripes, is very effective. For morning collars, we have the Byron style; that is, a standing collar at the back, and the ends turned down in front. These are worn by both sexes. Another style, called the Alexndra collar, has the Prince of Wales feather stitched on them with colored cotton.
Piques will be very fashionable, and the colored ones more varied in design and color than in former years. The designs being the same on the muslins, large Grecques, stars, pin dots, and other styles. We use the future tense respecting piques, for though we are told it is Spring, it is difficult to believe it, and nothing thinner than summer poplins, India silks, mohair lustres, queen's cloth, alpaca, and such goods, can yet be worn.
Many of the dress sleeves are made quite small at the wrist, barely admitting a small undersleeve. Dresses of all kinds are being trimmed with flutings, which are to be had ready fluted in tarletane, ribbon and silk, and any material can be quilled at a trifling expense.
Perfect scaffoldings of hair are now built on the head - roll upon roll - puff upon puff. Some of the styles are extremely odd; not the least odd, is that, for which are used two rats, two mice, a cat, and a cataract. Lest, however, we should be the means of some pussy being cut off by a premature death from the circle of which she is the ornament, we hasten to explain. The rats are the long frizetts of curled hair for the side rolls; the mice are the smaller ones above them; the cat is for the roll laid over the top of the head; and the cataract is for the chignon at the back of the head - which is sometimes called waterfall, cataract, and jet d'eau.
Little girls are wearing their hair in short frizzed curls, and, in some instances, we have seen very long hair floating down the back only slightly crepe. This, however, is not a pretty style, and we would not advise its adoption.
For coiffures, the humming-bird alone disputes with the butterfly the favor of fashion. These ornaments were introduced by the Empress of the French, and bring fabulous prices, many of them being made of precious stones, or of enamel worked with gold. They are worn by young ladies as well as matrons; the humming birds, being the natural bird of the rarest plumage, frequently set with diamond eyes.
At a recent ball the dress of the Empress was hooked up with diamond butterflies. The coiffure was composed of tufts of violets, from which a brilliant diamond butterfly seemed ready to spring into the air. The natural butterfly is however a coveted headdress, and as it is extremely fragile, it is rather an expensive fashion. They, as well as humming birds, are frequently mounted on barbes, with charming effect. One of the prettiest ball dresses we have seen, was a mass of little puffings over which were scattered butterflies of every hue and shade. The mania extends still further. We see them in the florist's windows hovering over plants, baskets of flowers, and choice hand bouquets. The last novelty however is this; every variety of humming bird and butterfly is gotten up on cartes of the carte de visite size for albums.
Mrs. Ellis, of 880 Broadway, is making up with her usual good taste, a number of very recherche walking suits. A very attractive one is an ashes of roses. Spring poplin, with very deep braiding in black above the hem. A talma of the same has a narrower braiding above the binding, and on the shoulders it is braided to represent a guipure round cape, the same as worn on the velvet cloaks this winter. The effect is beautiful. Another is a buff mohair lustre, braided in large palms round the skirt, with a talma of the same braided with smaller palms of the same style.
Brodie is making up Rotundes, sacks, and circles of every shade of steel, mode, and cuir. Most of them are braided in very striking patterns, some with merely a braided epaulet, while others are elegantly trimmed with gimp and jet ornaments. The silk wraps are generally trimmed with rich lace, oftentimes laid over white silk or satin, which gives a very distingue appearance. There is a great variety of out door garments, and the choice is left to the individual taste of the wearer.
We see but little alteration in the shape of bonnets. They are quite high, very shallow at the sides, and a gradual slope from the crown to the front. Gray straws are very fashionable, also silk bonnets closely shirred, sometimes with puffs between. In our next we will give more definite information respecting bonnets.
Sunday, September 9, 2012
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1860 Journal Des Demoiselles
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1860 Journal Des Demoiselles
Methods
He well, dear children, here you are satisfied, filled, and quite grateful to the new year. I am happy and just add to all the wishes that already, those who love you have forms for you, the wishes of a friend who wishes you well, and take every opportunity to give you proof of his affection .
This raises, let's talk:
But what then cause today? Recues visits, or made to do? It would be a chapter, if not fun, at least curious, and we could suggest useful reflections and observations interesting, but unfortunately, morality and philosophy are two sciences that I deemed not know, and in which I do not enter. Balls and concerts? I admit, but as he is also talking interditde mu sic, I'm reduced to making an inventory of diamonds Ms. X. ..: analysis toilet Mrs. Z. .. and the report finally ornaments more or less rough, more or less elegant that I have noticed. You straighten your head and listen as if this matter should interest you enormously. Well, we'll come back and I promise to show you how to make you beautiful, but you will agree with me that the most charming dress of a young girl, the freshness and the cheerful and open it wins hearts. Cesourire, ceteclat this freshness that you give them, otherwise this benevolent deity to which the antique pagan altars erected: health in one word? This health, this trasor, it is necessary to preserve at all costs, and take time to enjoy the precautions that the rigor of the season makes it so necessary.
So let us talk of hygiene, since the opportunity presents itself, and take my advice. First, dear friends, do ves Discover shoulders as little as possible, and cover the outlet ball as you litter the board in November, it is so slight that it will suffer any pressure or even a fatal hairdo and so hot that you will not feel the wind blowing outside and you inevitably reach in this hall or gallery cassette. So take your hands at the earliest, and if it is not already done, start out this kind of ball you make white and pink, white and blue, but white, or white, I must admit that this is the last object of my preferences: it simulates a swan dress fits perfectly and has all the faces at the same time it is consistent with all toilets.
First point to bear well: Topping Up least and get a; protected from drafts. Second point is no less important: Allow your size has full and complete freedom. Oh! madame, what do you mean? do you have the pretension that we should forsake our corsets?
Away from, carje just say, on the contrary, those of you who, through indifference or for any other reason, sometimes neglect this essential part of the toilet: You can not do without.
But I beg you, and it is to your mothers I speak now, take the greatest care in the choices you make an faiscuse; nothing more important, and there is yet more difficult to meet : that it is not to make you a size doll, you bard iron and you say: Stay straight.
I'd suggest developing a whale armor bristling steel springs long, wide, across, real arsenal that I can not think without experiencing palpitations, upset stomach or suffocation.
What you need is a corset very soft, very flexible, which, far from hurting you, you will experience a feeling of well-being that I can not define, but you'll know soon, I ' hope, when you try to lifejackets hygienic Madame Huot. Thanks to her the old saying: you have to suffer for being beautiful, has no meaning and is a crude lie. Sidonc you are sensible girls and eager to maintain or regain health or if, perchance, it had been weathered, feel free to point and make you take action.
You have heard and understood, is not it? Give me your little hand for a moment, just long enough to pass you a wrist English, intended to cover the arm portion remaining was naked between the sleeve and glove.
Which gloves, madam, now feels most couvenables?
To visit and dinner glove Suede is always the most distinguished, for horses, glove suede cuff with Crispin, for shopping, the kid glove double flannel or cashmere glove. And dog skin, should we permit it?
Provided that you do not choose this shade bloody made to inspire disgust and horror, unless however, that you were standing absolutely resemble a small skinned.
And now, goodbye, and next month.
Note: This is a literal translation of the original magazine by Google Translate.
Methods
He well, dear children, here you are satisfied, filled, and quite grateful to the new year. I am happy and just add to all the wishes that already, those who love you have forms for you, the wishes of a friend who wishes you well, and take every opportunity to give you proof of his affection .
This raises, let's talk:
But what then cause today? Recues visits, or made to do? It would be a chapter, if not fun, at least curious, and we could suggest useful reflections and observations interesting, but unfortunately, morality and philosophy are two sciences that I deemed not know, and in which I do not enter. Balls and concerts? I admit, but as he is also talking interditde mu sic, I'm reduced to making an inventory of diamonds Ms. X. ..: analysis toilet Mrs. Z. .. and the report finally ornaments more or less rough, more or less elegant that I have noticed. You straighten your head and listen as if this matter should interest you enormously. Well, we'll come back and I promise to show you how to make you beautiful, but you will agree with me that the most charming dress of a young girl, the freshness and the cheerful and open it wins hearts. Cesourire, ceteclat this freshness that you give them, otherwise this benevolent deity to which the antique pagan altars erected: health in one word? This health, this trasor, it is necessary to preserve at all costs, and take time to enjoy the precautions that the rigor of the season makes it so necessary.
So let us talk of hygiene, since the opportunity presents itself, and take my advice. First, dear friends, do ves Discover shoulders as little as possible, and cover the outlet ball as you litter the board in November, it is so slight that it will suffer any pressure or even a fatal hairdo and so hot that you will not feel the wind blowing outside and you inevitably reach in this hall or gallery cassette. So take your hands at the earliest, and if it is not already done, start out this kind of ball you make white and pink, white and blue, but white, or white, I must admit that this is the last object of my preferences: it simulates a swan dress fits perfectly and has all the faces at the same time it is consistent with all toilets.
First point to bear well: Topping Up least and get a; protected from drafts. Second point is no less important: Allow your size has full and complete freedom. Oh! madame, what do you mean? do you have the pretension that we should forsake our corsets?
Away from, carje just say, on the contrary, those of you who, through indifference or for any other reason, sometimes neglect this essential part of the toilet: You can not do without.
But I beg you, and it is to your mothers I speak now, take the greatest care in the choices you make an faiscuse; nothing more important, and there is yet more difficult to meet : that it is not to make you a size doll, you bard iron and you say: Stay straight.
I'd suggest developing a whale armor bristling steel springs long, wide, across, real arsenal that I can not think without experiencing palpitations, upset stomach or suffocation.
What you need is a corset very soft, very flexible, which, far from hurting you, you will experience a feeling of well-being that I can not define, but you'll know soon, I ' hope, when you try to lifejackets hygienic Madame Huot. Thanks to her the old saying: you have to suffer for being beautiful, has no meaning and is a crude lie. Sidonc you are sensible girls and eager to maintain or regain health or if, perchance, it had been weathered, feel free to point and make you take action.
You have heard and understood, is not it? Give me your little hand for a moment, just long enough to pass you a wrist English, intended to cover the arm portion remaining was naked between the sleeve and glove.
Which gloves, madam, now feels most couvenables?
To visit and dinner glove Suede is always the most distinguished, for horses, glove suede cuff with Crispin, for shopping, the kid glove double flannel or cashmere glove. And dog skin, should we permit it?
Provided that you do not choose this shade bloody made to inspire disgust and horror, unless however, that you were standing absolutely resemble a small skinned.
And now, goodbye, and next month.
Note: This is a literal translation of the original magazine by Google Translate.
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1864 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1864 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks -
Cuir of leather color, in all shades, is still very fashionable, because all other colors can be worn with it, and look well, although it is very unbecoming to the complexion. The taste for plaids increases rather than diminishes. Plaid ribbons, plaid poplins, and plaid velvets are all very much used for trimming dresses of sober colors. Cloaks, bournouses, dresses, petticoats, bonnets, all flash along our streets, in all the varieties of tartan, from that in which the brightest scarlet predominates, to the more sober dark-blue and green. Plaid silk and poplin dresses are very fashionable at the present time, blue and green being usually chosen in preference to brighter colors. The poplins are ornamented with narrow bands of Astrakan fur, and the silks with either chenille fringe or ruches. If the plaid is large, many ladies object to a bodice of the same being made with the skirt, as the lines, even with the greatest skill in cutting, rarely match so as to be pleasant to look upon; therefore, in its place, they have a small jacket, made either of blue of green cashmere, the petticoat being always of the same color as the jacket, and trimmed with rows of black cut velvet. The prettiest use to which the plaid fever has yet been applied (besides little girls' and boys' dresses, where bright checks are always pretty,) is in the broad sashes forming half-bodies, with bretelles, for the ends of which nearly half-tard wide taffeta is employed. These species of Swiss bodies are made not only in silk, but in velvet, satin, muslin, and even lace. In black lace, half-low bodices are made, the basquines at the back are formed of several rows of lace; bretelles are carried from the waist to the shoulders, and again to the back, the whole being terminated by long, flowing ends of white ribbon, edged with fringe or laces. These form very pretty additions to a simple dinner or evening dress, and can be made girlish or matronly, according to the materials employed.
In the make of dresses there is but little new since our last notice; as skirts are still cut with trains, ornamentation becomes less necessary. Chenille fringes are now much used around the skirts of dresses; they should be of the same color as the dress, terminating with round satin buttons. They are frequently arranged upon the skirt, so as to stimulate a tunic, high in front, and much lower at the back. These chenille fringes, and gimp, with jet intermixed, will form the newest and most fashionable winter trimmings for silk dresses. In gimp, especially, there is a great variety in design, and entire trimmings for dresses are now to be procured which produce all the effect of the most elaborate braiding; these are manufactured in one piece for the front breadth and bodice, increasing and narrowing in conformity with the lines of the figure. Dress-makers have one cause for rejoicing, in the present day - the trimmings are mostly made by machine. Black lace insertion, lined with white silk, is one of those ornaments of which people never appear to grow tired. It is now arranged, upon plain, high bodices, in a new style; indeed, gimp and other trimmings are disposed in a like manner. Instead of the trimming being placed upon the front of the bodice, it is arranged at the sides - upon the two plaits which are always necessary to fit the bodice to the figure.
No change appears in the shape of sleeves: they are narrow, and in the shape of gentlemen's coat-sleeves. They are sometimes so narrow that they are slit open inside the arm, and fastened, with an open lacing of velvet braid or ribbon, as though to be enlarged. Epaulets, in gimp, chenille, or velvet, are very generally added to them. For dinner and evening dresses, the square-cut bodies and half-short sleeves are preferred, worn with lace cape or fichu.
Long, flowing sashes, tied behind or at the side, now take very much the place of the Swiss bands, although these are also still worn. Sashes are made either of the material of the dress, or of the color of the trimming; they are either in ribbon or velvet, or in material piped all round, and are tied in a large bow. With any dress of a sober color, a plaid silk sash of bright tints looks very well, but a black one may also be worn. These sashes are less trimmed than formerly; they have only a plain hem or piping, and, at most, a narrow velvet or ribbon, or a very narrow black lace, sewn all around. A gray or fawn-colored merino dress, with blue silk sash and trimming, is a very pretty style of toilet for a young lady. We also recommend, for sashes, the Algerian ribbons, as a pretty novelty; they are striped of the brightest colors, and remind one of the Algerian shawls so much worn last winter.
Jackets, for in-door morning wear, are made of either Imperial blue or Monsignore violet cashmere. They are buttoned all down the front, and are cut quite straight, both in front and at the back, reaching as far as the commencement of the plaits of the skirts. They are trimmed, around the edge, with insertions made either of gimp or guipure, and down the front are placed, at regular intervals, gimp rosettes. For traveling and for wearing-out skirts, the military jacket is worn. This is made in cloth, with revers in front, which are fastened back with ornamental buttons. There is a basque at the back, and the front of this form are sloped or rounded off as they descend.
On evening dresses, ruches or bands of flounces are now very fashionable for young ladies. A beautiful white tarlatan dress has just been completed, the skirt of which had a thick, wide ruche around the edge, headed with two rows of small pink roses and blue forget-me-nots. White dress, with plaid bretelles, and a broad plaid sash, is a very simple, but effective toilet for a young lady.
Mantles - There are three styles of mantles which may be said to be fashionable at the present time: the large circular, the half-fitting paletot, and the casaque, or close-fitting jacket. The circular is made in a variety of materials; for morning wear, the checked black and white, and scarlet and black woolen, are the most appropriate; these are cut with a seam down the back, in the same way as a gore, which gives them breadth as they descend. Sometimes they are trimmed with chenille woolen fringe; and sometimes with only a binding of black velvet. These checked circulars should be cut with great precision, and care should be taken to match the plaid when sewing them up the back, otherwise the effect will be very irregular and distressing to the eye. For afternoon wear, these circulars are composed of velvet, and trimmed with either gimp, guipure, or narrow bands of fur. The newest are ornamented with a girle-cord and tassels upon the left shoulder; this girdle-cord is very thick, and is made of black silk; it commences at the top of the shoulder-seam, is knotted carelessly and fantastically, and the ends fall unevenly just below the tip of the shoulder. The half-fitting paletot is usually made of cloth, and is also suitable for morning wear. The cloth may be either black, dark, green, or cuir-color, and is trimmed with either gimp or chenille fringe, with frog buttons down the center as well as each side of the front. These paletots are loose in front, but are sloped somewhat in to the figure at the side and back seams, and many are ornamented with either gimp or chenille fringe round the top of the sleeves. If gimp is used, then it should have a small fringe at the edge. This can be made with either long jet beads, or with bell-buttons. The close-fitting velvet casaques are ornamented with gimp, in which small jet beads are introduced. Gimp is sewn down each side, in the form of a rounded sash, and in the center the pocket is cut, lengthways; there are gimp ornaments at the back of the waist, and a gimp trimming is carried round the shoulders, in the form of a square bodice. The sleeves to both paletots and casaques are cut in the exact form of a gentleman's coat-sleeve, and they are all ornamented, round the edge, with whatever trimming has been selected for the rest of the mantle.
Bonnets are rather lower in front, and less exaggerated in form, than those which were in vogue during the past summer; they are not decidedly Marie Stuart, but partake somewhat of that character; the curtains are deep, and in many cases pointed in the center. Plaid ribbons threaten to become common, so great is the furore for them, the large blue and green plaids being even more popular than those composed of brighter, gayer colors. Chenille fringe is very much worn around the brims of bonnets, and velvet flowers and leaves are also extremely fashionable. If feathers are used, they should be of the same shade as the most prominent colors in the plaid, and flowers should likewise follow the same rule. Velvet flowers, with brown grass and heather, have a good effect in the caps of bonnets which are trimmed with plaid. Black felt bonnets look well ornamented with bright plaid velvet ribbons; these are sometimes disposed in straps at the top of the brim, the straps being fastened down with small jet ornamental buttons.
Black bonnets are very generally worn this winter, even by those who are not in mourning; it will be considered quite sufficient to enliven them with a colored flower, to render them suitable for any dress. For example, a black crepe bonnet, embroidered with jet beads, and trimmed with a tuft of marabout feathers, with ostrich introduced at the tips, would require a moss-rose in the cap, and pink strings. If the bonnet is in black velvet, with a fringe of black chenille around the edge of the brim, and chenille ornaments at the side, the cap would be formed with a spray of sky-blue narcissus, with opaque white beads in their centers, the strings being sky-blue velvet with white edges. Pink is also very fashionable for bonnets, and we see many made entirely with pink plush, and a tuft of marabout feathers, with ostrich tips placed in the center of the fronts. Pink velvet bonnets, with bouillonnes of white tulle; pink terry bonnets, with bows of white blonde, with rose-buds intermingling, are also general.
In linen there are a few novelties, which we hail with delight, as a great improvement upon the hard, uncompromising little linen collars which have been so long in vogue. Lace is now introduced with the linen, and adds softness to the effect, and rendering it far less trying to the complexion. The sailor collar is the fashionable form. This is rounded at the back and pointed in front. The new style is to make the collar of fine linen, to cut it in small vandykes all round, and then to place Valenciennes lace edging at the back of the vandykes. The lace is sewn straight round, and not fulled on, except at the points, and the linen vandykes are overcast or sewn with satin-stitch down to the lace. This finish adds lightness to the otherwise heavy collar. The under-sleeves are arranged in the same manner, with deep pointed cuffs fastened with linen buttons, and trimmed round with lace and vandykes. For afternoon wear, the muslin embroidered insertion is arranged in the same way; but the collars, instead of being cut in the sailor form, are simply rounded, and the ends are formed with broad Valenciennes lace, corresponding in pattern with the narrow edging used for trimming around the collar, (these are newer than the lace cravats.) The sleeves are fastened with pearl buttons of a pyramidal form.
Caps, for evening wear, are now made in many coquettish forms, and are exceedingly tasteful. Those which are composed of lace, in the form of a half-handkerchief with lappets, are simply studded all round with small rosettes of the same color as the dress; these rosettes should not be made of narrow China ribbon, but of crossway taffetas merely drawn round to form a small circle. Squares of white blonde, in the Neapolitan style, are very fashionable at the present time; these are ornamented with pink or blue hyacinths. Caps are also frequently made with colored crepe lisse, with white blonde intermixed, crepe lisse lappets being turned over the rolls of hair at the sides, and tied low upon the neck at the back. Scarlet velvet fuchsias are now employed to ornament white blonde head-dresses.
Nets are now worn of the most delicate fabric; the finer they are, the better. They are made in thin sewing silk, or in hair: this latter style is very expensive. These nets are ornamented with a ruche or bow of colored ribbon.
Hair-nets are the indispensable accompaniments of hats, and are now essential parts of female costume. There are nets for night wear, as well as for day wear. The former are used instead of night-caps, of course. The furore for plaid has spread likewise to hair-nets, as plaid chenille hair-nets are now made and worn. Head-dresses, made of plaid ribbon, with small white feathers at the top, are also worn.
Monday, June 25, 2012
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1862 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - February 1862 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
There is still no change in the make of dresses. The corsages of those destined for out-door costume are high, and may be either pointed or straight at the waist; this depending on the taste of the wearer. In sleeves the variety of form is very great. Some are slit up the whole length of the arm, and edged with plaitings or bands, or with any trimming corresponding with that on the rest of the dress. In others the slit extends only a few inches in length, and the sleeves are rounded at the ends; the same trimming which passes round the edge is placed over the seam. Sleeves full at the arm-hole, close at the wrist, and with cuffs, retain their wonted favor; and we may enumerate the following as among the most popular forms: 1st. Sleeves demi-wide and with revers, but without fullness at the arm-hole. 2nd. Wide flowing sleeves, not very long, set in with large plaits fixed by bows of ribbon or lace. 3rd. Sleeves of narrow width, shaped to the elbow, and with revers. 4th. Lastly may be mentioned sleeves demi-wide, without revers, and finished at the ends with a plisse, or any trimming in harmony with that employed for the skirt of the dress.
Among many very pretty out-door costumes worn during the present season, is one consisting of brown poplin, trimmed round the lower part of the skirt with a band of black velvet; up the front is a row of black velvet buttons and bands of black velvet. With this dress is worn a shawl of black embroidered cashmere, trimmed with a deep fall of lace headed by a ruche of black silk. The bonnet, composed of black velvet and black spotted tulle, was trimmed with red flowers, and the strings were of black velvet. An elegant out-door dress consists of blue silk, having the edge of the skirt trimmed with a plaiting about six or seven inches broad; the corsage high and trimmed with plaitings, and the sleeves shaped to the elbow and with revers. A pardessus of black silk, wadded, and having a pelerine of black guipure, has been worn with the dress just mentioned. The bonnet is formed of a combination of blue silk and velvet, and trimmed with blue bells in velvet.
A good many dresses have capes or pelerines. In one of plain green silk, the collar, rounded and bordered with a green frill, is continued in a graceful lapel, cut at the edge and bordered with the same small frill and a row of Valenciennes.
Zouave Jackets in all their varieties continue to be worn. Some are very richly ornamented with colored braid, and of these we noticed a very original one with bright red braid, jet beads, and a fringe of jet and red tassels. With these are worn those chemisettes of embroidered cashmere, which divided favor with muslin ones during the past summer, and will altogether replace them now.
Under-Sleeves of worked muslin, with collars to match, are prettily trimmed with bows of blue ribbon and black velvet. One of the new Zouave chemisettes, or vests, consisting of nansouk, is ornamented with narrow tucks and a small plaited frill edged with Valenciennes. The sleeves are wide enough at the ends to allow the hand to pass through, and are finished by a turned-up frill.
Balmoral Petticoats are universally worn, particularly in wet or muddy weather when it is necessary to loop up the dress. They are made of a variety of materials: some of the prettiest consisting of gray flannel, braided with red or black braid, or having a band of black velvet around the bottom. A very beautiful one has a rich pattern in gold braid on a black silk or alpaca.
Shawls made of cloth, embroidered and wadded, are very much worn. Some have a rich fall of lace at the edge.
Cloaks - As trimmings for dresses and cloaks a great many crochet ornaments mixed with velvet are now made. The "Louise" pardessus, composed of black velvet, has a pelerine of guipure lace. The front, from top to bottom, is ornamented with rich embroidery; and the sleeves, which are shaped to the elbow, have embroidered revers. A cloak, named the "Henrietta," in fancy cloth, is made with three plaits at the back, each fixed by a large button. The sleeves are very long, slashed, and flowing, and have three plaits at the shoulder fixed by buttons.
Fur is a favorite trimming for mantles, and is much used for Zouave jackets. We have seen some of gray cloth, with a border of Chinchilla; one of maroon, bordered with black seal-skin; and black, edged with gray.
Bonnets - Many of the most fashionable bonnets have the fronts less pointed than those which have lately been worn. They are now rather straight above the forehead, and wide at the ears. The combination of black and white for bonnets has lost none of its wonted favor. Bonnets of velvet are trimmed with lace and blonde, feathers or flowers. Under the brim, full trimmings are preferred.
Head-Dresses - A stylish and elegant head-dress is formed of a diadem of black velvet, worked with stars in steel and jet. At the right side a small black feather and a bunch of roses, and a long white feather reaching round the other part of the head-dress.
A most stylish head-dress is formed of Vesuve chrysanthemums, with clusters of black fruit. It is slightly raised in front, and terminated in a point at the back.
Dress Caps are composed of white and black lace, mixed with ribbons and flowers; and most young married ladies wear a white coiffure, however beautiful and luxuriant their hair. It is quite the fashion in full dress.
Steel and Jet are much employed in ornamenting coiffures.
Tuesday, May 22, 2012
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1863 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - March 1863 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
The March winds are so bleak that there has but little that is new appeared as yet. Dresses are now made much flatter and narrower on the hips, and are rarely trimmed, except round the bottom of the skirt; and long sleeves grow narrower daily.
For the promenade, skirts of dresses, when of rich materials, are generally without trimming, or with as little as possible. Bodies are made high, with the waist slightly pointed, sometimes with two short points; small pointed capes of velvet are being introduced, as are also berthes set on the same as on a low body. Some dresses are made with Postillion jackets, which quite plain. Sleeves are mostly made shaped at the elbow, whether wide and open, or of a closer form.
The low bodies are now cut extremely low on the shoulder, but not so much so either at the front or back. The lace tucker should correspond with the lace with which the dress is trimmed, and should be tied in front as well as at the back with black or colored narrow ribon velvet. Some dress-makers tie the tucker on the shoulders as well, but this is not necessary for its well-fitting. Low bodices as well as high ones are made extremely short at the waist; the short sleeves are flatter and far less puffed out than they were last winter - sometimes they are even made quite flat, and are simply trimmed.
There is a very pretty style of Under-Sleeve, which is both new and comfortable. It consists of a very deep tight cuff, reaching half-way up the arm, and fastened on the upper part of the arm by six or seven tiny gilt buttons. These cuffs are sometimes embroidered round in a color, and are attached to an ordinary full sleeve, of course shorter than usual, in consequence of the depth of the cuff.
Muslin Cravats are, to a great extent, tking the place of collars for in-door wear; some being knotted, and others tied in large bows. Tey are made in lace, or embroidered muslin edged with lace; and, arranged in the latter mode, are called in Paris the :Cravate Avocat." These little cravats are in great vogue for out-door toilets, when they were worn with the open mantles with revers. Charming little novelties in the way of silk cravats for ladies are daily appearing. Some of the cravats are perfectly sright, stitched at each edge with white; others are shaped at the ends, and ornamented with an embroidery of silk or beads; and many of them are further enriched with a tiny blonde or narrow lace.
Head-Dreses differ widely from the heavy wreaths lately worn. A puff of white tulle, a bunch of moss-roses, a branch of foliage, with the hair curled or creped between, arranged to suit the style of face, is now the most fashionable style. Birds'-nests, humming-birds, butterflies, and dragon flies are all called into requisition to form this irregular, fanciful head-gear. Shoes for evening wear are now made of satin or silk of the exact color and shade of the dress, have high heels, and are ornamented in front with black lace rosettes. Fans of carved ivory without any gilding, with black or white lace lined with silk or satin the exact shade of the dress, are now considered in better taste than any other style of fan.
Striped Petticoats are the most fashionable ones in Paris; black and white, red and white, or violet and black, with the stripes running downward instead of across, and with a narrow band of self-colored cloth or silk, stitched in white silk in an arabesque or classical design just above the hem. This is worn over a cage, which has a starched white flounce round the bottom of it. These cages are more patronized by the Parisians than any other kind of crinoline or steel petticoat. Colored stockings now invariably accompany the colored petticoat; they should correspond with it exactly both in color and style. Violet is a favorite color both for petticoats and stockings, especially since it can be now manufactured fast, and warranted "to stand any amount of washing."
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1860 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1860 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
Among the new materials for the dresses of the present season we have observed some very rich silks, consisting of moires, striped and figured with bouquets, or with single flowers. Plain silk is becoming decidedly fashionable for dresses, and it is now worn in almost every tint. Of figured silks there are a great number in very pretty patterns. Plain and chequered satins and poplins have also appeared in great variety.
Front trimmings for the skirts of dresses continue in vogue. This style of ornamenting dresses forms a variety to the mode at present so popular, of trimming them with flounces.
Dresses for home and the promenade are made high, closing in the front; the bodies fitting tight have the waists round, or but slightly pointed; bows or knots of velvet are worn down the centre, that at the waist terminating in long flowing ends. For dresses that have no flounces or second skirt, papillon or butterfly bows of velvet are very fashionable, they are placed entirely down the front of the dress. The small pointed pelerine or cape is in favor, or the body trimmed with a frill to imitate one, some ladies preferring the latter mode.
Sleeves are of various shapes. Some consist entirely of puffings reaching from the shoulder to the wrist. Others have small puffings above, and the lower part formed of one deep frill. Pagoda sleeves, or those narrow at top and wide at the lower part, are among the favorites. Sleeves are sometimes made nearly close to the arm, and are finished at the end by a mousquetaire cuff. Those consisting of several frills, one above the other, are among the prettiest.
Among the prettiest dresses lately made, there is a dress of plain black silk which has just been completed. The skirt is trimmed with two deep flounces, each edged with two narrow gauffered frills. The corsage, high and buttoned up the front, is ornamented with a berthe pointed before and behind, and trimmed with two very narrow gauffered frills. The sleeves are wide pagodas, cut on the bias; they are finished at the lower edge with a double gauffered frill, and at the shoulder there is a gauffered trimming in the form of an epaulet. A ceinture of ribbon with a buckle is worn round the waist.
Bonnets, for this season, are rather larger than those worn during the past summer. They also sit closer round the face, and the brim advances somewhat more over the forehead than heretofore. Several have round crowns. They are composed of various materials, and the trimmings consist of feathers, flowers, velvet, blonde, lace, and ribbon. We have seen a bonnet of black velvet having the edge bordered with a row of red velvet; the curtain, formed of black velvet, is edged with red. On the left side of the bonnet there is a cock's plume in red and black. Another bonnet, composed of white silk, has been trimmed with a brown ostrich feather. The curtain is composed of brown silk, and the strings of brown ribbon.
Cloaks are made full and rather long, and several have wide hanging sleeves. Some have hoods, and others are covered at the upper part with a pointed pelerine, or with a square collar. One which is likely to be much in favor, is composed of gray cloth, and has wide flowing sleeves. It is pointed behind, and the point reaches to within a short distance of the edge of the dress. A small pointed pelerine or fichu covers the upper part, and the trimming consists of passementerie. Another cloak is in the shawl form, and is composed of black velvet ornamented with embroidery. It is trimmed with three very deep flounces of black lace. Another black velvet cloak has a fichu-pelerine ornamented with embroidery and a trimming of fringe.
Jakcets or Deep Basques are also exceedingly fashionable; they equally divide public favor with the cloaks. They are made of black, gray, or striped cloth, and are large and ample, having a peculiarity in the sleeve, which is cut extremely wide, and put in large plaits into the armhole, from whence it falls quite unconfined. This jacket has also a small collar and pockets.
Head-dresses - The prettiest novelty for the season in the way of ornament for the hair, is a circlet of medallions, worn across the forehead. These are sometimes in cameos, sometimes in coral, and sometimes small gilt coins laid on a band of black velvet. We have also seen some gilt butterflies on a bandeau of black velvet, and scattered over the bows of black velvet behind the head, which had a very tasteful and fanciful effect.
Ladies in the country may like to have a simple cap suggested to them, which they can easily have made. Fold a piece of black net to about an inch wide, and let it be just long enough to reach to the sides of the face. Cut two little lappets about three inches long, and round at one end; tuck into them a very slight wire, and sew them on to the end of the foundation band. Attach a round crown. Fold a piece of net, and set it on as a curtain behind. This forms the foundation of the cap, which is to be trimmed with bows of ribbon at each side, placed on the lappets, and with bows and ends behind. Over this lay a row of white Maltese lace, plain in the front and fulled round the ears and behind; and over this a diamond of black lace, or one crossed with ribbon velvet, finished round with a narrow black edging. In this way one of the prettiest caps of the season will be produced.
General Remarks
Among the new materials for the dresses of the present season we have observed some very rich silks, consisting of moires, striped and figured with bouquets, or with single flowers. Plain silk is becoming decidedly fashionable for dresses, and it is now worn in almost every tint. Of figured silks there are a great number in very pretty patterns. Plain and chequered satins and poplins have also appeared in great variety.
Front trimmings for the skirts of dresses continue in vogue. This style of ornamenting dresses forms a variety to the mode at present so popular, of trimming them with flounces.
Dresses for home and the promenade are made high, closing in the front; the bodies fitting tight have the waists round, or but slightly pointed; bows or knots of velvet are worn down the centre, that at the waist terminating in long flowing ends. For dresses that have no flounces or second skirt, papillon or butterfly bows of velvet are very fashionable, they are placed entirely down the front of the dress. The small pointed pelerine or cape is in favor, or the body trimmed with a frill to imitate one, some ladies preferring the latter mode.
Sleeves are of various shapes. Some consist entirely of puffings reaching from the shoulder to the wrist. Others have small puffings above, and the lower part formed of one deep frill. Pagoda sleeves, or those narrow at top and wide at the lower part, are among the favorites. Sleeves are sometimes made nearly close to the arm, and are finished at the end by a mousquetaire cuff. Those consisting of several frills, one above the other, are among the prettiest.
Among the prettiest dresses lately made, there is a dress of plain black silk which has just been completed. The skirt is trimmed with two deep flounces, each edged with two narrow gauffered frills. The corsage, high and buttoned up the front, is ornamented with a berthe pointed before and behind, and trimmed with two very narrow gauffered frills. The sleeves are wide pagodas, cut on the bias; they are finished at the lower edge with a double gauffered frill, and at the shoulder there is a gauffered trimming in the form of an epaulet. A ceinture of ribbon with a buckle is worn round the waist.
Bonnets, for this season, are rather larger than those worn during the past summer. They also sit closer round the face, and the brim advances somewhat more over the forehead than heretofore. Several have round crowns. They are composed of various materials, and the trimmings consist of feathers, flowers, velvet, blonde, lace, and ribbon. We have seen a bonnet of black velvet having the edge bordered with a row of red velvet; the curtain, formed of black velvet, is edged with red. On the left side of the bonnet there is a cock's plume in red and black. Another bonnet, composed of white silk, has been trimmed with a brown ostrich feather. The curtain is composed of brown silk, and the strings of brown ribbon.
Cloaks are made full and rather long, and several have wide hanging sleeves. Some have hoods, and others are covered at the upper part with a pointed pelerine, or with a square collar. One which is likely to be much in favor, is composed of gray cloth, and has wide flowing sleeves. It is pointed behind, and the point reaches to within a short distance of the edge of the dress. A small pointed pelerine or fichu covers the upper part, and the trimming consists of passementerie. Another cloak is in the shawl form, and is composed of black velvet ornamented with embroidery. It is trimmed with three very deep flounces of black lace. Another black velvet cloak has a fichu-pelerine ornamented with embroidery and a trimming of fringe.
Jakcets or Deep Basques are also exceedingly fashionable; they equally divide public favor with the cloaks. They are made of black, gray, or striped cloth, and are large and ample, having a peculiarity in the sleeve, which is cut extremely wide, and put in large plaits into the armhole, from whence it falls quite unconfined. This jacket has also a small collar and pockets.
Head-dresses - The prettiest novelty for the season in the way of ornament for the hair, is a circlet of medallions, worn across the forehead. These are sometimes in cameos, sometimes in coral, and sometimes small gilt coins laid on a band of black velvet. We have also seen some gilt butterflies on a bandeau of black velvet, and scattered over the bows of black velvet behind the head, which had a very tasteful and fanciful effect.
Ladies in the country may like to have a simple cap suggested to them, which they can easily have made. Fold a piece of black net to about an inch wide, and let it be just long enough to reach to the sides of the face. Cut two little lappets about three inches long, and round at one end; tuck into them a very slight wire, and sew them on to the end of the foundation band. Attach a round crown. Fold a piece of net, and set it on as a curtain behind. This forms the foundation of the cap, which is to be trimmed with bows of ribbon at each side, placed on the lappets, and with bows and ends behind. Over this lay a row of white Maltese lace, plain in the front and fulled round the ears and behind; and over this a diamond of black lace, or one crossed with ribbon velvet, finished round with a narrow black edging. In this way one of the prettiest caps of the season will be produced.
Monday, January 30, 2012
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1865 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - January 1865 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
An English correspondent says: "Three things in a lady's toilet are now considered necessary, and to appear without them is to appear unfashionable, and these three are - a small bonnet, a wide waistband, and a coat-shaped sleeve." If the coat basque is worn, the waistband is usually worn over it, but this is so ugly a fashion that we hope it will not last long. The belts are now from four to six inches in width, and, of course, the buckles are in proportion. Jet, gilt and jet, plain gilt, steel, and mother-of-pearl buckles are all worn; but the latter is only fashionable for evening wear.
Large buttons "are all the rage," the square mother-of-pearl ones being the handsomest, but jet, steel, and gilt are equally worn.
The back as well as the fronts of dresses are now opened and trimmed, as will be seen by our wood-cuts, but this necessitates great expense, as the under-dress should be of a corresponding quality with the upper one, without an old skirt can be used for the lower one. The trimming on the sleeves, the waistband, etc., should be of the color of the under-skirt.
Embroidery is profusely used on some dresses, and when this is mingled with jet beads it is particularly elegant. Lace insertion is, also, popular for silks, as well as gimp with jet. For woolen drawers silk braid is the most suitable trimming, and this is very convenient, as it can be disposed of in so many different ways.
Tunics are simulated by starting the trimming from each side of the waist, and letting it sweep off, gradually, toward the back, where it forms a trimming around the bottom of the skirt.
Sashes, for evening wear, are in great demand; but some, who are tired of the old fashion of fastening them at the back, now tie them at the side.
The petticoat is of as much importance, for out-of-door wear, as the dress itself, in these days of looped-up skirts. Of course, linsey, merino, cashmere, or any warm material is worn; but these are always, more or less, ornamented with grave or gay colors, according to the fancy of the wearer. Scarlet, trimmed with black, is popular, but so showy that, if many are worn, they will soon look comon. The most stylish ones are black silk, quilted in white of some pretty pattern by a sewing-machine.
The short paletot is probably the most fashionable, but just now almost any style of out-door covering can be worn and not look old. The sleeves ought always to be of the coat-shape, however. Circulars, with hoods, are still adhered to by many who think that drapery from the shoulders is more graceful than any other. The hood should be round, not pointed. For paletots, gimp epaulets and trimmings on the cuffs are necessary.
A very pretty evening dress has just come out in Paris. The material is blue taffetas covered with white gauze; the skirt has a pleating round the edge, and the bodice has seven basques at the waist, two in front, two at the sides, and three at the back. These are short in front, and increase materially in length as they turn toward the back, where they form a point in the center, and are finished off with a sky-blue silk tassel. These basques or straps (so narrow are they) are piped with blue taffetas. There are pointed epaulets at the tops of the sleeves, with a blue silk tassel depending from each point. The dresses for out-door wear are made in the same style, with five basques or tabs separated from each other. A single long basque all round the waist is also worn (exactly like the basques of the time of Charles I.); and above the basque an Empire waistband is added. As both scallops and vandykes are fashionable, these basques are frequently cut out round the edge in one of these forms, and a tassel is sewn to each point. Above the vandykes several rows of narrow ribbon-velvet are sewn vertically. This original style of bodice was worn first by the Empress Eugenie.
Bonnets are very small, as will be seen by looking at some of our wood-cut figures. What is called the Fanchon, or half-handkerchief bonnet, will be the popular form for the winter. The front alone will consist of velvet, plush, satin, or whatever material may be selected. Thus for a bonnet, with a front of black velvet, the crown would consist of a black lace half-handkerchief falling over a soft white tull one; a damask rose low upon the neck underneath the lace - black strings. With these small bonnets it is necessary to wear the hair very low in the neck. Drooping loops at the back are still the favorite style of the day; they are secured by small invisible nets of thin silk. In front, full bandeaux turned back from the face, or a number of rolls, one above the other, are worn; an attempt is also made to introduce the small curls falling over the forehead, without any parting in front.
Fur collars continue comparatively small. Some are pointed, and some rounded both at the back and front, but this is a matter of taste. Muffs are small; some are made of velvet, and trimmed around each side with a border of fur, or embroidery.
Head-dresses, for young ladies, consist of nets scattered over with gold, steel, coral, or jet beads. Flowers are placed on the hair in detached bunches, sometimes only a single rose being employed. Wreaths are no longer seen.
General Remarks
An English correspondent says: "Three things in a lady's toilet are now considered necessary, and to appear without them is to appear unfashionable, and these three are - a small bonnet, a wide waistband, and a coat-shaped sleeve." If the coat basque is worn, the waistband is usually worn over it, but this is so ugly a fashion that we hope it will not last long. The belts are now from four to six inches in width, and, of course, the buckles are in proportion. Jet, gilt and jet, plain gilt, steel, and mother-of-pearl buckles are all worn; but the latter is only fashionable for evening wear.
Large buttons "are all the rage," the square mother-of-pearl ones being the handsomest, but jet, steel, and gilt are equally worn.
The back as well as the fronts of dresses are now opened and trimmed, as will be seen by our wood-cuts, but this necessitates great expense, as the under-dress should be of a corresponding quality with the upper one, without an old skirt can be used for the lower one. The trimming on the sleeves, the waistband, etc., should be of the color of the under-skirt.
Embroidery is profusely used on some dresses, and when this is mingled with jet beads it is particularly elegant. Lace insertion is, also, popular for silks, as well as gimp with jet. For woolen drawers silk braid is the most suitable trimming, and this is very convenient, as it can be disposed of in so many different ways.
Tunics are simulated by starting the trimming from each side of the waist, and letting it sweep off, gradually, toward the back, where it forms a trimming around the bottom of the skirt.
Sashes, for evening wear, are in great demand; but some, who are tired of the old fashion of fastening them at the back, now tie them at the side.
The petticoat is of as much importance, for out-of-door wear, as the dress itself, in these days of looped-up skirts. Of course, linsey, merino, cashmere, or any warm material is worn; but these are always, more or less, ornamented with grave or gay colors, according to the fancy of the wearer. Scarlet, trimmed with black, is popular, but so showy that, if many are worn, they will soon look comon. The most stylish ones are black silk, quilted in white of some pretty pattern by a sewing-machine.
The short paletot is probably the most fashionable, but just now almost any style of out-door covering can be worn and not look old. The sleeves ought always to be of the coat-shape, however. Circulars, with hoods, are still adhered to by many who think that drapery from the shoulders is more graceful than any other. The hood should be round, not pointed. For paletots, gimp epaulets and trimmings on the cuffs are necessary.
A very pretty evening dress has just come out in Paris. The material is blue taffetas covered with white gauze; the skirt has a pleating round the edge, and the bodice has seven basques at the waist, two in front, two at the sides, and three at the back. These are short in front, and increase materially in length as they turn toward the back, where they form a point in the center, and are finished off with a sky-blue silk tassel. These basques or straps (so narrow are they) are piped with blue taffetas. There are pointed epaulets at the tops of the sleeves, with a blue silk tassel depending from each point. The dresses for out-door wear are made in the same style, with five basques or tabs separated from each other. A single long basque all round the waist is also worn (exactly like the basques of the time of Charles I.); and above the basque an Empire waistband is added. As both scallops and vandykes are fashionable, these basques are frequently cut out round the edge in one of these forms, and a tassel is sewn to each point. Above the vandykes several rows of narrow ribbon-velvet are sewn vertically. This original style of bodice was worn first by the Empress Eugenie.
Bonnets are very small, as will be seen by looking at some of our wood-cut figures. What is called the Fanchon, or half-handkerchief bonnet, will be the popular form for the winter. The front alone will consist of velvet, plush, satin, or whatever material may be selected. Thus for a bonnet, with a front of black velvet, the crown would consist of a black lace half-handkerchief falling over a soft white tull one; a damask rose low upon the neck underneath the lace - black strings. With these small bonnets it is necessary to wear the hair very low in the neck. Drooping loops at the back are still the favorite style of the day; they are secured by small invisible nets of thin silk. In front, full bandeaux turned back from the face, or a number of rolls, one above the other, are worn; an attempt is also made to introduce the small curls falling over the forehead, without any parting in front.
Fur collars continue comparatively small. Some are pointed, and some rounded both at the back and front, but this is a matter of taste. Muffs are small; some are made of velvet, and trimmed around each side with a border of fur, or embroidery.
Head-dresses, for young ladies, consist of nets scattered over with gold, steel, coral, or jet beads. Flowers are placed on the hair in detached bunches, sometimes only a single rose being employed. Wreaths are no longer seen.
Monday, December 19, 2011
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1862 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1862 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks
Dresses still continue to have the skirts gored, thus diminishing the fullness around the waist, though they are not made quite as narrow at the top as heretofore. Trimmings of various descriptions are again coming into favor: one favorite style being very narrow fluted flounces of the same silk as the dress, placed two and two together: another style is a fluted flounce about six or seven inches deep, set on with narrow heading. A very striking trimming for a dress of light gray silk is formed by rows or ribbon, the four colors of the rainbow; they should be either eight or twelve in number, and the widths should graduate. Narrow ruches, waved or formed into Greek borders, is a favorite trimming, these should be the color of the dress. Ribbon or velvet, contrasting in color to the dress, and arranged in the Greek or Ionic border, will be likewise worn.
Bodies of dresses, when high, are closed with small buttons. Many of the new dresses are opened part of the way down the front of the body in a heart-shape, or square, a la Raphael; whilst others, of very thin material, are made low in the nexk, and can either be worn with a cape, or a white over-body. Over some of the high bodies are worn what is called the Spanish jacket, which somewhat resembles the Zouave jacket, but fits the figure more closely, and is much shorter.
Another style of high body will have a small jacket at the back only, similar to a habit. A favorite style of trimming high bodies will be Arabesque designs in braid, very narrow velvet, or silk gimp: with this style a kind of fringe should ornament the sleeves and round the waist.
Sleeves are large, even when shaped at the elbow: puffed sleeves will be worn, but very few tight to the arm.
The Medici ceintures appear to be now, with many persons, an indispensable article of dress. They are made in a variety of ways, and are trimmed in so many different styles that it would be impossible to describe all we have seen. The ceintures are all made with pointed bands round the waist, and have two ends falling down the skirt on each side of the point. Small trimmed pockets are generally inserted in the ends, or a trimming to imitate them is substituted.
We have noticed these sashes in plain silk, with corss-bars of velvet, fastened by beads, as an ornament for the bottom. Others have an end of embroidered net, and others are merely trimmed with ruches; but the pointed band is invariably ornamented to correspond with the two ends.
Of fichus, and black and white net Zouave jackets, for evening wear, we can only say that they are as much worn as ever; as are also velvet jackets, embroidered in steel or black.
Short sacques, made of silk, cloth, or sacque flannel, are universally worn. These sacques are loose, have moderately wide coat-sleeves, and are trimmed with designs in braiding, gimp binding, etc.
Bonnets continue to be worn projecting in the front, and cut away at the side. They are covered tight to the shape, with a cord poping round the edge, and the curtain neither so wide nor so deep as formerly. The trimming is somtimes laid on the crown, and sometimes on the front of the bonnet, being usually of flowers, berries, and green leaves, with tufts of the same as under-trimming. A very simple but lady-like style is to place a bow of broad ribbon on the front of the bonnet, passing a long piece of the same over it, in the center, and giving it one twist, on each side, in bringing it down to the points where it forms the strings.
General Remarks
Dresses still continue to have the skirts gored, thus diminishing the fullness around the waist, though they are not made quite as narrow at the top as heretofore. Trimmings of various descriptions are again coming into favor: one favorite style being very narrow fluted flounces of the same silk as the dress, placed two and two together: another style is a fluted flounce about six or seven inches deep, set on with narrow heading. A very striking trimming for a dress of light gray silk is formed by rows or ribbon, the four colors of the rainbow; they should be either eight or twelve in number, and the widths should graduate. Narrow ruches, waved or formed into Greek borders, is a favorite trimming, these should be the color of the dress. Ribbon or velvet, contrasting in color to the dress, and arranged in the Greek or Ionic border, will be likewise worn.
Bodies of dresses, when high, are closed with small buttons. Many of the new dresses are opened part of the way down the front of the body in a heart-shape, or square, a la Raphael; whilst others, of very thin material, are made low in the nexk, and can either be worn with a cape, or a white over-body. Over some of the high bodies are worn what is called the Spanish jacket, which somewhat resembles the Zouave jacket, but fits the figure more closely, and is much shorter.
Another style of high body will have a small jacket at the back only, similar to a habit. A favorite style of trimming high bodies will be Arabesque designs in braid, very narrow velvet, or silk gimp: with this style a kind of fringe should ornament the sleeves and round the waist.
Sleeves are large, even when shaped at the elbow: puffed sleeves will be worn, but very few tight to the arm.
The Medici ceintures appear to be now, with many persons, an indispensable article of dress. They are made in a variety of ways, and are trimmed in so many different styles that it would be impossible to describe all we have seen. The ceintures are all made with pointed bands round the waist, and have two ends falling down the skirt on each side of the point. Small trimmed pockets are generally inserted in the ends, or a trimming to imitate them is substituted.
We have noticed these sashes in plain silk, with corss-bars of velvet, fastened by beads, as an ornament for the bottom. Others have an end of embroidered net, and others are merely trimmed with ruches; but the pointed band is invariably ornamented to correspond with the two ends.
Of fichus, and black and white net Zouave jackets, for evening wear, we can only say that they are as much worn as ever; as are also velvet jackets, embroidered in steel or black.
Short sacques, made of silk, cloth, or sacque flannel, are universally worn. These sacques are loose, have moderately wide coat-sleeves, and are trimmed with designs in braiding, gimp binding, etc.
Bonnets continue to be worn projecting in the front, and cut away at the side. They are covered tight to the shape, with a cord poping round the edge, and the curtain neither so wide nor so deep as formerly. The trimming is somtimes laid on the crown, and sometimes on the front of the bonnet, being usually of flowers, berries, and green leaves, with tufts of the same as under-trimming. A very simple but lady-like style is to place a bow of broad ribbon on the front of the bonnet, passing a long piece of the same over it, in the center, and giving it one twist, on each side, in bringing it down to the points where it forms the strings.
Saturday, December 10, 2011
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - April 1864 Godey's Lady's Book
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - April 1864 Godey's Lady's Book
Chitchat Upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for April
Spring comes slowly on, but she betrays her presence even in March, with here and there a brighter color or a sweeter hue. As the month of violets opens, these indications increase until on some fine April morning Broadway bursts suddenly into a moving parterre of beauty.
The store windows now present to the passers by a choice assortment of piques percales, and brillantes in the soft creamy and pearl tints, besides every variety of green, cuir, lilac, and buff. Some are covered with strange looking geometrical figures, while others are powdered over with brilliant tiny plumes.
Most of the robe dresses are printed in lace-like designs; some having bands resembling an insertion, with an edge on each side; while others have barbe-like pieces arranged in fanciful designs. Another beautiful style has a deep band of a different color, with the upper edge scalloped, laid, or rather printed on the extreme edge of the skirt, and above this a very beautiful braiding design. The same design, in reduced size, is on the Zouave and sleeves.
For children, the goods are generally in white grounds covered with a delicate tracery of buds and leaves.
For promenade costume, there is nothing yet strikingly novel. We see many dresses mane en suite, that is, dress and mantle alike. The principal colors are the different shades of mahogany, the lovely soft grays, and the so long fashionable cuir color. The suits are generally trimmed with chenille fringes, flat trimmings, and bias bands of plaid material, also plaid ribbons arranged in a variety of ways.
Double and triple rows of fringe are worn on silk dresses, and lace insertions are still worn. Indeed, the richest dress we have lately seen was a black silk, with a wide thread lace insertion over a white silk band with pinked edges, laid round the skirt, and carried up the front in a fanciful design.
Lasy tear we spoke of dresses waved on the edge of the skirt, but this season they are cut in deep scallops, about the width of the hand, and bound with the same as a contrasting color.
A hint now to the economical. When your dress is soiled on the edge, cut it off and scallop it. Then underneath the scallops sew a piece of some material to make it the desired length, and cover this with one or two ruffles. The scallops must be allowed to fall partly over the ruffles, and the effect is exceedingly pretty. It is an excellent method of renovating an old dress, or a pretty style for a new one.
Some of the newest dresses have a chenille fringe, a box-plaited ruffle, or rows of black lace shells arranged on the skirt to resemble a tunic, being quite long behind and short in front.
Foulard is greatly in favor for entire suits including the parasol.
The Directoire body is one of the fashionable styles. It fits the figure closely at the waist, is open in front, with revers, like a gentleman's vest, and is fastened at the left side. The revers can be faced with either a plaid, or high-colored silk. The waist has a jockey at the back, and the whole is trimmed with long, hanging buttons.
A very elegant morning robe is cut like a casaque in front, and is fitted to the figure at the back by a large box-plait. A pretty trimming for this style of wrapper consists of straps of silk, which commence at the throat, narrow to the waist, and enlarge as they descend to the bottom of the skirt.
A very pretty suit for a little girl can be made of buff mohair, and trimmed as follows: The skirt should be cut in deep scallops and bound, then turned up on the right side like a hem, and a fancy button sewed on each scallop. A circular cape trimmed in the same manner completes a very simple and pretty promenade dress.
In plaid silks there is somewhat of a novelty. It consists of a small golden-colored dot in each square of the plaid, which gives it a rich and striking effect.
Jockeys assume a variety of forms. Sometimes they are in three pieces a la postillon, the centre one being the longer. Sometimes they are square and box-plaited in the centre, and fastened down with buttons. Others again have but one long point, while others are swallow-tailed.
Dresses are still made buttoned down the left shoulder to the arm, and from thence crossing to the right side of the waist.
Besides the numerous plaid wraps at Brodie's, we find an admirable assortment of plain cloths. They are of the Spanish cafe and the cafe au lait, in all the different shades, besides a great variety of grays, generally on the pink tinge. Many of the cloths have a bias stripe of two threads crossing them, which is quite pretty. The casaques and rotundes are trimmed with flat chenille trimmings, fringes, drop buttons, and bead gimps.
Water-proof cloaks seem now to be a necessary article in a lady's wardrobe. They are generally made with the quaker style of hood, which can be pulled over the bonnet. They are buttoned all the way down the front with large black buttons stamped with butterflies, snakes, birds, grasshoppers, and other devices. The newest water-proof we have seen had a long pointed hood, a regular capuchin, trimmed with a box-plaiting of the material and two long silk tassels.
In bonnets we see a great avriety of colored chips trimmed with ribbon to match or a good contrast. The fashionable flowers seem to be the elegant scarlet cactus, in bright, soft shades of velvet, which gives it a peculiar lustre, magnolias, water-lilies, and geraniums. Bright flowers, with brown grass and heather, have an excellent effect in the caps of bonnets which are trimmed with plaids.
Black crin, or horse-hair bonnets, are very much worn, and the new color Milan, which is between a salmon and a corn color, looks particularly well on them. Roses of this color, with scarlet berries and black ribbon, make a very stylish trimming.
Another new color is called flamme de punch, from its resembling the bright, flickering light from a punch bowl. This color is particularly pretty for a white straw or chip bonnet. Amethyst is also one of the new colors.
Black crins also look well trimmed with feathers having plaid tips. This is arranged by tipping each little feathery strand with a different color, which produces a plaid-like effect. Another style of trimming for a black bonnet is a green and blue ribbon or velvet, and peacock's tips; the last being very fashionable for children's hats, for head-dress, and for the trimming of ball dresses.
Tufts of feathers studded with jet, steel, and crystal, are much in vogue for bonnets and headdresses.
Travelling bonnets are made of silk to match the dress, or of colored straw. They are very much trimmed with chenille fringe, tipped with large beads falling over the face and crown.
Children are all wearing hats, and the newest trimming we have seen is a band of velvet or ribbon round the crown, with a falling bow at the back. This bow is not fastened on the hat, but depends from the ends, which are apart at the top and are joined below the brim. Many also are trimmed with straw ribbons ornamented with a narrow design in black, also straw ornaments, such as oats, lilies of the valley, fringes, buttons, and straw tassels. The prettiest flowers are poppies, daisies, hops, corn flowers, buttercups, and bright berries.
We notice that parasols are a shade longer than last year, and are trimmed with leather, lace insertions, and beads. The trimmings are all laid on the parasols, and not allowed to fall over. The handles are carved wood, either oak or walnut, or a light transparent ivory resembling tortoise shell.
Linen sets are now being relieved by an edging of Valenciennes, which renders them much more becoming. As yet no new shapes have appeared.
A very pretty and simple headdress for a young lady is formed of two bands of plaid velvet round the front of the head, and a large bow at the left side. One band only passes round the head, and in this is an elastic so that it may be arranged high or low to suit the coiffure. Thick gold cords are frequently entwined in the hair with good effect.
Young ladies are still wearing the front hair either in rools, double rolls, or crimped. The latter, though pretty, we would not advise as a permanent style, as we consider it very injurious to the hair. The back hair is arranged either in waterfall or Grecian style. The latter, we may say, is the rage. As all our fair friends are not endowed with curly locks, and curly papers are certainly neither graceful nor tidy, and pinching the hair is decidedly not a tonic, we would advise them to have a false Grecian. These are exceedingly pretty, and fastened on a comb so they can be arranged in the hair without any trouble.
In bows there are a very great variety of style. The white ones are quite small and ornamented with applications of bright-colored silk or velvet chain stitched on in points and other designs.
For young ladies we particularly admire the French muslins dotted in colors: these are very suitable for a party dress for a miss, and can be worn throughout the summer, always looking fresh and pretty and much more suitable than a trimmed dress.
A very elegant ball dress can be made of tufted illusion. It represents clouds of tulle fastened down on a thin skirt at equal and regular distances by small bows with ends. Either white or colored bows can be used, and the effect is perfectly charming. It is, however, an expensive dress, for unless the dress is exceedingly full, it loses its soft, cloud-like appearance. We are told it requires fifty yards of tulle and two hundred and twenty yards of ribbon for this style of dress, but we look upon this as an exaggeration.
In the present number we give some very excellent headdresses, not from the Maison Tilman, but of their stamp. Our readers will now see how the little oddities, such as snakes and the mother-of-pearl butterflies, are arranged, though the cuts, we admit, give but a faint idea of the elegant originals.
Mother-of-pearl, which we first saw introduced in the Tilman headdresses, and of which we spoke in our last chat, is rapidly gaining ground. The ever-varying colors it emits by gas light render it a valuable addition to an evening toilet. The pearly part of the shall is separated in strips as thin as paper, and with these lavers, trembling oats and wheat ears are admirably well imitated. These, mixed with other flowers and arranged on the head and over the dress, produce a glittering and beautiful effect.
We had an opportunity recently of witnessing at Mme. Demorest's a new and very efficient running-stitch sewing machine. It is quite unlike the former one both in appearance and operation. A common short sewing needle is used, which is very easily placed and nat at all liable to be broken. Mothers and dressmakers will find this little machine of infinite service in making up all kinds of clothing.
The Roman scarfs which we described last month are now exceedingly fashionable. Not only are they made of split zephyr, but they are also woven in bright-colored silks. The latest style for wearing them is to knot them at the back of the neck and allow the ends to hang down behind.
Chitchat Upon New York and Philadelphia Fashions for April
Spring comes slowly on, but she betrays her presence even in March, with here and there a brighter color or a sweeter hue. As the month of violets opens, these indications increase until on some fine April morning Broadway bursts suddenly into a moving parterre of beauty.
The store windows now present to the passers by a choice assortment of piques percales, and brillantes in the soft creamy and pearl tints, besides every variety of green, cuir, lilac, and buff. Some are covered with strange looking geometrical figures, while others are powdered over with brilliant tiny plumes.
Most of the robe dresses are printed in lace-like designs; some having bands resembling an insertion, with an edge on each side; while others have barbe-like pieces arranged in fanciful designs. Another beautiful style has a deep band of a different color, with the upper edge scalloped, laid, or rather printed on the extreme edge of the skirt, and above this a very beautiful braiding design. The same design, in reduced size, is on the Zouave and sleeves.
For children, the goods are generally in white grounds covered with a delicate tracery of buds and leaves.
For promenade costume, there is nothing yet strikingly novel. We see many dresses mane en suite, that is, dress and mantle alike. The principal colors are the different shades of mahogany, the lovely soft grays, and the so long fashionable cuir color. The suits are generally trimmed with chenille fringes, flat trimmings, and bias bands of plaid material, also plaid ribbons arranged in a variety of ways.
Double and triple rows of fringe are worn on silk dresses, and lace insertions are still worn. Indeed, the richest dress we have lately seen was a black silk, with a wide thread lace insertion over a white silk band with pinked edges, laid round the skirt, and carried up the front in a fanciful design.
Lasy tear we spoke of dresses waved on the edge of the skirt, but this season they are cut in deep scallops, about the width of the hand, and bound with the same as a contrasting color.
A hint now to the economical. When your dress is soiled on the edge, cut it off and scallop it. Then underneath the scallops sew a piece of some material to make it the desired length, and cover this with one or two ruffles. The scallops must be allowed to fall partly over the ruffles, and the effect is exceedingly pretty. It is an excellent method of renovating an old dress, or a pretty style for a new one.
Some of the newest dresses have a chenille fringe, a box-plaited ruffle, or rows of black lace shells arranged on the skirt to resemble a tunic, being quite long behind and short in front.
Foulard is greatly in favor for entire suits including the parasol.
The Directoire body is one of the fashionable styles. It fits the figure closely at the waist, is open in front, with revers, like a gentleman's vest, and is fastened at the left side. The revers can be faced with either a plaid, or high-colored silk. The waist has a jockey at the back, and the whole is trimmed with long, hanging buttons.
A very elegant morning robe is cut like a casaque in front, and is fitted to the figure at the back by a large box-plait. A pretty trimming for this style of wrapper consists of straps of silk, which commence at the throat, narrow to the waist, and enlarge as they descend to the bottom of the skirt.
A very pretty suit for a little girl can be made of buff mohair, and trimmed as follows: The skirt should be cut in deep scallops and bound, then turned up on the right side like a hem, and a fancy button sewed on each scallop. A circular cape trimmed in the same manner completes a very simple and pretty promenade dress.
In plaid silks there is somewhat of a novelty. It consists of a small golden-colored dot in each square of the plaid, which gives it a rich and striking effect.
Jockeys assume a variety of forms. Sometimes they are in three pieces a la postillon, the centre one being the longer. Sometimes they are square and box-plaited in the centre, and fastened down with buttons. Others again have but one long point, while others are swallow-tailed.
Dresses are still made buttoned down the left shoulder to the arm, and from thence crossing to the right side of the waist.
Besides the numerous plaid wraps at Brodie's, we find an admirable assortment of plain cloths. They are of the Spanish cafe and the cafe au lait, in all the different shades, besides a great variety of grays, generally on the pink tinge. Many of the cloths have a bias stripe of two threads crossing them, which is quite pretty. The casaques and rotundes are trimmed with flat chenille trimmings, fringes, drop buttons, and bead gimps.
Water-proof cloaks seem now to be a necessary article in a lady's wardrobe. They are generally made with the quaker style of hood, which can be pulled over the bonnet. They are buttoned all the way down the front with large black buttons stamped with butterflies, snakes, birds, grasshoppers, and other devices. The newest water-proof we have seen had a long pointed hood, a regular capuchin, trimmed with a box-plaiting of the material and two long silk tassels.
In bonnets we see a great avriety of colored chips trimmed with ribbon to match or a good contrast. The fashionable flowers seem to be the elegant scarlet cactus, in bright, soft shades of velvet, which gives it a peculiar lustre, magnolias, water-lilies, and geraniums. Bright flowers, with brown grass and heather, have an excellent effect in the caps of bonnets which are trimmed with plaids.
Black crin, or horse-hair bonnets, are very much worn, and the new color Milan, which is between a salmon and a corn color, looks particularly well on them. Roses of this color, with scarlet berries and black ribbon, make a very stylish trimming.
Another new color is called flamme de punch, from its resembling the bright, flickering light from a punch bowl. This color is particularly pretty for a white straw or chip bonnet. Amethyst is also one of the new colors.
Black crins also look well trimmed with feathers having plaid tips. This is arranged by tipping each little feathery strand with a different color, which produces a plaid-like effect. Another style of trimming for a black bonnet is a green and blue ribbon or velvet, and peacock's tips; the last being very fashionable for children's hats, for head-dress, and for the trimming of ball dresses.
Tufts of feathers studded with jet, steel, and crystal, are much in vogue for bonnets and headdresses.
Travelling bonnets are made of silk to match the dress, or of colored straw. They are very much trimmed with chenille fringe, tipped with large beads falling over the face and crown.
Children are all wearing hats, and the newest trimming we have seen is a band of velvet or ribbon round the crown, with a falling bow at the back. This bow is not fastened on the hat, but depends from the ends, which are apart at the top and are joined below the brim. Many also are trimmed with straw ribbons ornamented with a narrow design in black, also straw ornaments, such as oats, lilies of the valley, fringes, buttons, and straw tassels. The prettiest flowers are poppies, daisies, hops, corn flowers, buttercups, and bright berries.
We notice that parasols are a shade longer than last year, and are trimmed with leather, lace insertions, and beads. The trimmings are all laid on the parasols, and not allowed to fall over. The handles are carved wood, either oak or walnut, or a light transparent ivory resembling tortoise shell.
Linen sets are now being relieved by an edging of Valenciennes, which renders them much more becoming. As yet no new shapes have appeared.
A very pretty and simple headdress for a young lady is formed of two bands of plaid velvet round the front of the head, and a large bow at the left side. One band only passes round the head, and in this is an elastic so that it may be arranged high or low to suit the coiffure. Thick gold cords are frequently entwined in the hair with good effect.
Young ladies are still wearing the front hair either in rools, double rolls, or crimped. The latter, though pretty, we would not advise as a permanent style, as we consider it very injurious to the hair. The back hair is arranged either in waterfall or Grecian style. The latter, we may say, is the rage. As all our fair friends are not endowed with curly locks, and curly papers are certainly neither graceful nor tidy, and pinching the hair is decidedly not a tonic, we would advise them to have a false Grecian. These are exceedingly pretty, and fastened on a comb so they can be arranged in the hair without any trouble.
In bows there are a very great variety of style. The white ones are quite small and ornamented with applications of bright-colored silk or velvet chain stitched on in points and other designs.
For young ladies we particularly admire the French muslins dotted in colors: these are very suitable for a party dress for a miss, and can be worn throughout the summer, always looking fresh and pretty and much more suitable than a trimmed dress.
A very elegant ball dress can be made of tufted illusion. It represents clouds of tulle fastened down on a thin skirt at equal and regular distances by small bows with ends. Either white or colored bows can be used, and the effect is perfectly charming. It is, however, an expensive dress, for unless the dress is exceedingly full, it loses its soft, cloud-like appearance. We are told it requires fifty yards of tulle and two hundred and twenty yards of ribbon for this style of dress, but we look upon this as an exaggeration.
In the present number we give some very excellent headdresses, not from the Maison Tilman, but of their stamp. Our readers will now see how the little oddities, such as snakes and the mother-of-pearl butterflies, are arranged, though the cuts, we admit, give but a faint idea of the elegant originals.
Mother-of-pearl, which we first saw introduced in the Tilman headdresses, and of which we spoke in our last chat, is rapidly gaining ground. The ever-varying colors it emits by gas light render it a valuable addition to an evening toilet. The pearly part of the shall is separated in strips as thin as paper, and with these lavers, trembling oats and wheat ears are admirably well imitated. These, mixed with other flowers and arranged on the head and over the dress, produce a glittering and beautiful effect.
We had an opportunity recently of witnessing at Mme. Demorest's a new and very efficient running-stitch sewing machine. It is quite unlike the former one both in appearance and operation. A common short sewing needle is used, which is very easily placed and nat at all liable to be broken. Mothers and dressmakers will find this little machine of infinite service in making up all kinds of clothing.
The Roman scarfs which we described last month are now exceedingly fashionable. Not only are they made of split zephyr, but they are also woven in bright-colored silks. The latest style for wearing them is to knot them at the back of the neck and allow the ends to hang down behind.
Friday, November 18, 2011
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1863 Peterson's Magazine
Civil War Era Fashion Chit Chat - June 1863 Peterson's Magazine
General Remarks - The varieties of new materials for summer wear are innumerable. Alpacas, summer poplins, and summer silks, are among the most popular of the spring goods; but for a little later in the season are mixtures of wool and silk, thinner than the articles just named, but more durable than bareges, and less liable to crumple than tissues. These goods are usually of some of the shades of brown, fawn, gray, or lilac, though some are in small black and white plaids. Grenadines are nearly all black, with small detached figures of only one color, as brown, violet, blue, green, orange, or crimson. The organdies are nearly all of white grounds with bunches of roses, carnations, or groups of blackberries and leaves. These organdies are exquisite, but come at the high price of one dollar per yard. There are other organdies in dress patterns, at eighteen dollars the dress, which are lovely. The ground is white with a fine hair-colored figure running through it; but around the bottom is a band of white about an eighth of a yard in width, covered with rose-buds.
We mentioned in a former number that plain cambrics come with patterns printed round the bottom and up the front of the skirts, such as a buff cambric with a black Maltese lace pattern; another buff cambric with a bold braided design in black printed upon it, etc., etc. The effect of these printed imitations is so excellent, that at a short distance it is impossible to believe that the lace was not genuine Maltese, and that the design was not in reality braided upon the material.
The skirts of dresses are still made very long behind, and are much gored, to throw the fullness nicely to the bottom. They are now arranged behind in large gathers, and plaited in small plaits from the gathers to the front. Bodices are being made with three points behind and two in front; the small tail behind is still also worn, but the round waists are never seen unless a sash is worn tied behind, and then this mode of bodice is admissible. Sleeves are made to fit rather closely to the arm, the long, very open sleeves being now seldom seen. Epaulets are very generally worn at the top, with a turned-back cuff at the bottom to correspond. Unless the figure is tall and slight, we think the epaulets give too much width to the figure, therefore stout persons should on no account wear them.
Basquines are coming in fashion again, though as yet they are so small as hardly to deserve the name.
Camlets, alpacas, and foulards of one color, as well as figured foulards, are at present the favorite materials for morning dresses. They are usually made high and closely fitting to the figure, with two points in front, and with a small swallow-tail basque at the back. The sleeves are cut either open and very narrow round the bottom, small bell buttons being carried up the seam as far as the elbow, or they are closed at the wrist with a pointed cuff, which is at least a quarter of a yard deep. These gauntleted closed cuffs are very popular for morning wear, being found to be infinitely more convenient and comfortable than the wide hanging sleeves, with the pagoda-shaped white undersleeve, which so speedily lost its freshness, consequently its beauty. Over these deep-pointed closed cuffs white linen cuffs of the same shape are worn. No decision apparently has been arrived at on the subject of the morning white linen collar. In London the small standing collar, with the narrow-colored silk cravat, the pointed cavalier collar, and the small rounded one, are all fashionable. In Paris there is at the present moment a great tendency toward the introduction of large linen collars. To the fairest and best of complexions this large expanse of white linen proves very trying.
Muslin cravats are still worn round the throat; they are made narrower than formerly, and are embroidered at both ends. Some have a narrow Valenciennes edging around them; they are tied exactly as a gentleman's cravat, with the ends standing out in a line with the bow, and not hanging down as formerly.
The change in the shape of Crinoline is daily more apparent in Paris, but in London there is no difference as yet visible. In the former city, crinolines and steel petticoats of all descriptions are made flat and clinging from the waist to the knee, and from the knee downward they expand until they attain round the bottom larger and wider dimensions than formerly. For out-door wear these crinolines are made to reach only to the top of the boots at the back, as dresses still continue to be drawn up; but for evening and in-door wear they are made much longer at the back, and are cut with a train or fan-like expansion, as dresses with trains fall more gracefully over petticoats which are cut in some measure, although in a lesser degree, in the same shape.
Mantillas are of various shapes. The round, full ones are probably the most in favor. The pelerine, of a shawl shape behind, with long, square ends in front and trimmed with ruffles of silk, is also very much worn.
Bonnets are still made high, though not with so sharp a point in front as formerly. The trimming continued to be very much on the top, but with persons of good taste this is never exaggerated.
General Remarks - The varieties of new materials for summer wear are innumerable. Alpacas, summer poplins, and summer silks, are among the most popular of the spring goods; but for a little later in the season are mixtures of wool and silk, thinner than the articles just named, but more durable than bareges, and less liable to crumple than tissues. These goods are usually of some of the shades of brown, fawn, gray, or lilac, though some are in small black and white plaids. Grenadines are nearly all black, with small detached figures of only one color, as brown, violet, blue, green, orange, or crimson. The organdies are nearly all of white grounds with bunches of roses, carnations, or groups of blackberries and leaves. These organdies are exquisite, but come at the high price of one dollar per yard. There are other organdies in dress patterns, at eighteen dollars the dress, which are lovely. The ground is white with a fine hair-colored figure running through it; but around the bottom is a band of white about an eighth of a yard in width, covered with rose-buds.
We mentioned in a former number that plain cambrics come with patterns printed round the bottom and up the front of the skirts, such as a buff cambric with a black Maltese lace pattern; another buff cambric with a bold braided design in black printed upon it, etc., etc. The effect of these printed imitations is so excellent, that at a short distance it is impossible to believe that the lace was not genuine Maltese, and that the design was not in reality braided upon the material.
The skirts of dresses are still made very long behind, and are much gored, to throw the fullness nicely to the bottom. They are now arranged behind in large gathers, and plaited in small plaits from the gathers to the front. Bodices are being made with three points behind and two in front; the small tail behind is still also worn, but the round waists are never seen unless a sash is worn tied behind, and then this mode of bodice is admissible. Sleeves are made to fit rather closely to the arm, the long, very open sleeves being now seldom seen. Epaulets are very generally worn at the top, with a turned-back cuff at the bottom to correspond. Unless the figure is tall and slight, we think the epaulets give too much width to the figure, therefore stout persons should on no account wear them.
Basquines are coming in fashion again, though as yet they are so small as hardly to deserve the name.
Camlets, alpacas, and foulards of one color, as well as figured foulards, are at present the favorite materials for morning dresses. They are usually made high and closely fitting to the figure, with two points in front, and with a small swallow-tail basque at the back. The sleeves are cut either open and very narrow round the bottom, small bell buttons being carried up the seam as far as the elbow, or they are closed at the wrist with a pointed cuff, which is at least a quarter of a yard deep. These gauntleted closed cuffs are very popular for morning wear, being found to be infinitely more convenient and comfortable than the wide hanging sleeves, with the pagoda-shaped white undersleeve, which so speedily lost its freshness, consequently its beauty. Over these deep-pointed closed cuffs white linen cuffs of the same shape are worn. No decision apparently has been arrived at on the subject of the morning white linen collar. In London the small standing collar, with the narrow-colored silk cravat, the pointed cavalier collar, and the small rounded one, are all fashionable. In Paris there is at the present moment a great tendency toward the introduction of large linen collars. To the fairest and best of complexions this large expanse of white linen proves very trying.
Muslin cravats are still worn round the throat; they are made narrower than formerly, and are embroidered at both ends. Some have a narrow Valenciennes edging around them; they are tied exactly as a gentleman's cravat, with the ends standing out in a line with the bow, and not hanging down as formerly.
The change in the shape of Crinoline is daily more apparent in Paris, but in London there is no difference as yet visible. In the former city, crinolines and steel petticoats of all descriptions are made flat and clinging from the waist to the knee, and from the knee downward they expand until they attain round the bottom larger and wider dimensions than formerly. For out-door wear these crinolines are made to reach only to the top of the boots at the back, as dresses still continue to be drawn up; but for evening and in-door wear they are made much longer at the back, and are cut with a train or fan-like expansion, as dresses with trains fall more gracefully over petticoats which are cut in some measure, although in a lesser degree, in the same shape.
Mantillas are of various shapes. The round, full ones are probably the most in favor. The pelerine, of a shawl shape behind, with long, square ends in front and trimmed with ruffles of silk, is also very much worn.
Bonnets are still made high, though not with so sharp a point in front as formerly. The trimming continued to be very much on the top, but with persons of good taste this is never exaggerated.
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