Civil War Era Ladies' Dresses - March 1861 Peterson's Magazine
The Hildegorde - This new style of dress is made of slate-colored silk. The body and skirt is cut in one, like the Polonaise or Imperatrice: but instead of the skirt opening in front like the last named dresses, it opens slantwise from the waist down to nearly the bottom of the skirt, where it again turns toward the front. The body closes up to the throat, and has a lappel on one side only. The sleeves are full, with a jockey at the top and a cuff at the bottom. The dress is trimmed with a band of velvet, and a puffing of silk at the edge, of the color of the dress.
The Highland - This charming dress, suitable for the country, is of plain delaine. In the engraving the skirt is fastened up with "pages:" but can also be made to fasten up on the inside by placing a few buttons around the skirt, and looping them up with tape strings depending from the waist. With this dress a Balmoral skirt is indispensable. Some ladies make the petticoat of plain gray flannel, and ornament it with rows of red cloth or flannel. A loose jacket is worn over a linen chemisette in place of a tight body. The jacket is ornamented with briad and buttons, and opens at the throat. Empress hat and plume.